1 Rufus Street,
Hoxton,
London,
N1 6PE
(020) 7613 0598
The ViewLondon Review
There is no smoke without fire. This furnace needs some fire.
The Venue
Furnace looks like it has snuggled well into its seat by Hoxton Square, but its transient decor suggests that the restaurant could just be a vagabond who has merely hit a comfortable pit-stop in its road. This large uncluttered space has an uncharacteristically fleeting quality to it, one that is incongruously devoid of character and easy to replicate elsewhere, like the exposed brick wall, token worn pillars and beams and even the strategically placed and openly displayed oven at a corner of the room.
The Atmosphere
While it is a struggle to draw character out from the surroundings, it is easier to get it out of the staff who incidentally like to blow hot and cold. Fortunately the food sticks to the hot - it is served once it is cooked, so everyone at the table gets their dish at different times. The regulars from the nearby offices don't seem to mind much as they are here more for casual not business lunches. That said, you won't see any Hoxton Fins dining here - the Furnace is much too safe for their fashion.
The Food
A strictly Italian menu challenges thoughts of this being yet another mindless start of a chain; about 17 authentic oven-cooked pizzas are offered, and pesce, pasta (both courses between about £7 and £13) and desserts (£4.50 – £4.90) are served only as daily specials. But the diversification ends here; the pizzas are made to a standard, right down to the way they are presented. The Pizza Margherita (£6.85) for example is evenly-topped with tomato sauce, a fine layer of buffalo mozzarella, and flecks of dried basil with a precisely uneven 1cm rim of crust around the topping. The crust is thin, crisp and a bit chewy and unevenly burnt, and while dry basil might be a tolerable substitute, one can't help feeling fresh would have been better.
The Drink
Like its food menu, the wine list is thoroughly Italian. The list is made up of young wines from all over the country, the youngest being 2007 and the oldest 2005. House wines go for £3.25 per glass and £12.65 per bottle. The rest of the bottles gradually rise to the price of £26. If you're only looking for a refreshing glass of lager, they have Moretti for about £3.
The Last Word
A pleasant place to sit and catch up over some reasonably priced Italian staples but not one for an experience.
Hoxton Furnace has been reviewed by 6 users