Hunan is a Chinese restaurant without a menu – somewhere to relinquish control and be taken on a tour of the delicacies that China has to offer.

The Venue
Hunan sits quietly and somewhat quaintly on Pimlico Road in the good (and rather pricey) company of Daylesford Organics, William Curley and a host of Belgravia art shops. A family affair since its opening in 1982, Hunan is run by Chef Peng and his son Michael, whose unique personal chef concept means Hunan is best known as the restaurant without a menu, as instead of ordering specific dishes, diners can expect a succession of small, tapas-style dishes created to their individual preferences using the freshest ingredients available.

The Atmosphere
From the potted trees which line Hunan’s exterior to the tasteful Chinese illustrations which adorn the walls inside, the restaurant exudes a sophisticated classiness, but in a very understated way. White walls and wood flooring give a very light feel but draw emphasis instead to interesting ornamentals such as Buddha figurines and a Chinese gong on the wall. Wooden tables are homely and fitting of the friendly and personalised service given by front-of-house Michael and the team, but an air of fine dining resides with tables fully laid, glasses fully polished and plates fully warmed.

The Food
Hunan isn’t the place for fried cabbage masquerading as seaweed. Although driven by Chef’s creativity rather than set in tradition, it is always true to its roots. What these roots are is less clear-cut – the restaurant takes its name from the home of Chef’s mentor, but is more influenced by Taiwan, where he was brought up. Characteristic styles include plenty of spice and a good deal of fermented beans, but this is much more appetising than it might sound. It seems the team here delight in bringing out beautifully cooked and often very subtle dishes using ingredients which, though familiar in China, would make most Brits feel a little squeamish – in other words, the things you wouldn’t pick if you had a menu.

Intestines are a case in point. They come in small, tight rolls with a dressing giving flavours of soy, black-bean, ginger and chilli and are hard not to love. Tongue In Ear is another creative example. A thinly rolled piece of pig tongue encapsulated within an ear is not unlike a Chinese pastrami, but with the addition of a pleasant crunchiness (that’ll be the ear cartilage). To think of how it’s made is perplexing, not to mention who came up with the idea. Jellyfish is presented with more subtlety, on the other hand. It comes in sushi-esque rolls with shredded mooli and, though flavourful as a whole, would be hard to identify for what it was.

Homemade pickles are less outlandish but incredibly successful. Pickled cucumber chunks maintain their juicy freshness, while a cabbage pickle not unlike the Korean kimchi is an altogether fierier option and incredibly addictive. Other highlights of the non-menu include a smoky beef stew brimming with ginger and rice wine; chilli squid; an oozing tofu-sesame fritter; and some moreish deep-fried salty beans which could easily be mistaken for green bean tempura with a soy batter. Slow cooked pork belly which comes in a rich, smoky black bean gravy deserves a special mention for its sheer melting tenderness, as does a refreshingly just-cooked duck which comes with homemade plum sauce along with pancakes and shredded spring onions – a modern twist on one of the most typical options available.

A dessert of sesame coated banana fritters is another example of standard Chinese fare taken to a fine dining level. Served with (what tasted like) homemade vanilla ice cream, they are crunchy on the inside and gooey on the inside, with a delectable toffee sauce.

The down-side of the exciting no menu approach is the pricing. Without stating your ground on entering, it can be difficult to know what you’re going to end up paying, with the emphasis really being on how hungry you are. Staff are, however, happy to accommodate and considering the quantity of food served up, prices are reasonable. A good-sized, many coursed meal is likely to cost in the region of £35 without drinks.

The Drink
The wine list at Hunan is overseen by Michael, and it is something he takes very seriously. Fruity whites such as Gewurztraminer and Riesling are recommended for the style of food and the list of these is extensive. Prices start around £30 a bottle and go much higher but unusual varieties mean there are still many good value options. A few light reds are also available, as are other drinks if requested.

The Last Word
Free from the constraints of a menu, eating at Hunan is like embarking on a culinary adventure through China. There are twists and turns at every corner, and there’s as much to be discovered as there is to be eaten.

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