There’s less of a hush and more of a hum in this buzzing Mayfair brasserie – the happy hum of contented people enjoying themselves.

The Venue
Lancaster Court is close to the achingly cool South Molton Street - with its hip and ultra-expensive emporiums - so many of the West End ladies-who-lunch (or perhaps that should be divas-who-dine) find their way into Hush. On a Thursday evening in August, the outdoor courtyard is heaving and the indoor restaurant is filling up fast. There is an intimate cocktail lounge - for intimate, read black lacquer and low lighting - and further dining areas, including private rooms.

The Atmosphere
It is highly amusing to watch the slinky Sloanies staggering in weighed down with slithery shopping bags - Selfridges’ bright yellow abounds - which are efficiently whisked away by the top-notch front-of-house staff. The ratio of female to male diners is probably around 70:30, but all ages, of both sexes, seem perfectly at ease.

The Food
Hush doesn’t do fuss. Its food is allowed to speak for itself, with no flourish nor fanfare. A crab and avocado salad (£12.50) is a gob-smackingly small portion for its price, elegantly presented on a huge plate. The avocado is perhaps a little too lemony, but it complements the lightly seasoned crab. The flavours in the rare tuna salad (£9), with soy, ginger and sesame, are much more punchy, but tuna is a meaty fish and can take it.

A huge T-bone steak (£26), requested medium rare, is perfectly cooked - tender and juicy. It is served only with a little pot of béarnaise sauce so you are almost forced to order a side of “Aspen fries”, with truffle oil and parmesan. They are well cooked and tasty, but £6.50 seems a little steep for what are, essentially, cheesy chips. Slow-roasted Old Spot pork belly (£18.50) is superb - this is the king of pigs. It comes with a light gravy and herby soft polenta, but needs no further adornment. Underneath proper crunchy crackling is meltingly soft, sweet pork, so yielding you barely need to chew. As side of green beans (£4.50), which have plenty of bite, goes beautifully with both the steak and the pork. Highly popular is a towering organic fishcake with tomato relish.

If you still have room, do try the Mars Bar cheesecake (£6.50). Served with praline ice cream, it’s not as gooey as it sounds; the upside-down vanilla and lemon cheesecake (£5.50), however, is so sweet it will make your temples ache.

The Drink
It would be foolish to imagine, given Hush’s catchment area, that its wine list would be anything but on the steep side. That being said, a decent Trebbiano is very drinkable at £17.95 and a Chilean Merlot at £21.50 shouldn’t leave a financial hangover, at least. The house champagne, a Taittinger NV, is £52. Why not start your evening (or lunch, come to that) with a Mayfair Cosmopolitan, a fruity concoction of vodka, cranberry and raspberry juices, with Grand Marnier? Or if your taste is more traditional, Hush does an extremely authentic G&T.

The Last Word
Hush’s locale is obviously expensive, which is reflected in its prices. But this is beautiful food, well presented, with warm and friendly service, be you prince or pauper. Hush, keep it to yourself.

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