This family run Italian has an exciting experimental kitchen and proves a real Italian eating experience. Each month they represent a different region of Italy.

The Venue
Tucked away in the residential back streets of North Kensington, there’s an open spacious feel with big windows and a lot of light, and the decor and ambience is like walking into the quaint little shop from the film Chocolat. It feels like a little oasis with a chequered tiled floor, broderie anglaise half curtains, candles and higgledy-piggledy pictures and adverts which come together to give the feel of a French or Italian cafe. Even tap water is charmingly served out of old French lemonade bottles and you can see straight through to the kitchen over a big bar on the right as you come in.

The Atmosphere
The restaurant maintains an intimate feel and a pleasant hum abounds with what seems like plenty of regulars. They are booked out almost every night and you can sense that some people have made the special effort to travel here. You could argue that it is part of the chaotic charm of the place but the service is a little patchy and although it is difficult to time differing orders of antipasti, primi and secondi, some dishes are badly mistimed. They are definitely one staff member short when it is busy.

The Food
There is a hugely extensive menu which changes all the time. For antipasti the bruschetta is an assorted melee - traditional Roman with tomatoes, a marvellous goat’s cheese and an experimental Sicilian bruschetta of caper puree with anchovies. The baby octopus is cooked to such a tender state that it is like eating melting pasta. The maltagliati is a rich creamy delight of mascarpone and goat’s cheese in which you can taste the different chunky texture of the homemade pasta. Out of the primi, only the risotto seems out of sorts, a little too gloopy to be pleasurable.

Unfortunately the meal runs out of a little steam - the main courses are not a patch on the magnificent primi. The poussin is a little dry, though the potato accompanying it is an innovative success, and the Argentinean steak is a little bland with dry and crumbly roast potatoes. But come dessert, they finish with a bang, not a whimper. The taste of the honey ice cream is perfectly brought out by a cake with pine nuts and chestnut flour. Don’t be surprised if you hear an Italian diner saying the tiramisu is the best they’ve ever had outside Italy. A full three course meal with wine for two comes to over £100.

The Drink
A small but well researched wine list includes a Chianti Rufina (£25) that’s light but full bodied and almost too easy too drink. And the tumblers cannot disguise the quality of the Barolo Zonchera which is on the wine list for just over £50 when it would usually be more than double that price. Subtle Moscato dessert wine served in shot glasses goes well with the honey ice cream. Peroni beer is also available.

The Last Word
Perfect as a simple, local Italian but it needs to find its identity with a smaller menu. Too much variety dilutes the brilliance of the best dishes with others that are not so good, but it’s much more hit than miss.

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