143 Ebury Street,
London,
SW1W 9QN
0872 148 3470
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
Even for a nation renowned for the lyricism of its language, borrowing a title from the canon of a man heralded as the father of the Italian tongue is bold. Luckily this place delivers on the promise of Dante’s prose - it's far from comedic and certainly divine.
The Venue
A stucco fronted Georgian townhouse in upmarket Belgravia is an unassuming venue for this fine restaurant. From street level only a couple of tables are visible and there’s little hint of the large yet intimate space that extends back into the converted conservatory at the rear of the dining room. Descend a short flight of stairs though and you are met by an expansive room bright from skylights and clean wooden furnishings. A wall of rich red, embossed with evocative lines from the great poet's opus, injects a little warmth and humour, whilst well-spaced tables allow privacy and intimacy. Forthcoming alfresco tables out the front will complete things nicely, and will, one suspects, be as well executed as the rest of the house.
The Atmosphere
Anyone who has travelled in Italy will know the unique joy this nation takes in its food; and, more importantly, the pride taken in sharing it with others. Il Convivio has captured the essence of this really well. Diners are put at ease immediately on arrival by the infectious, charming staff, and there’s certainly a buzz about the place from what’s undoubtedly a well-heeled clientele. Every table seems ensconced in their own private pleasure, punctuated only by charming staff with perfect timing who seem to glide effortlessly throughout the room.
The Food
The menu at Il Convivio is as authentic as the atmosphere, and every bit as enjoyable. Antipasti, pastas, fish and meat courses all blend contemporary and classic influences, and there’s plenty of choice whether you’re after comforting Italian staples or more adventurous fare. It's certainly an exciting menu and will no doubt turn many customers into regulars.
The beef carpaccio is an elegant dish, with tender and beautifully sliced meat drizzled with delicately infused basil oil, and given a subtle textural lift by ribbons of celery - an unusual but winning combination. Parma ham shows impressive sourcing, with generous piles of melt-in-the-mouth ham married with home marinated vegetables and pickles to offset the rich meat with a little sharpness.
Pasta is of course where any Italian must show their mettle and the short but perfectly formed pasta menu shows confidence and flair (the black spaghetti with lobster and spring onions is particularly good), and each dish can be served either as a starter or main course. A sea bass and crab ravioli with a fine herb butter shows a wonderfully deft hand - the delicate fish and seafood, potentially so easily overpowered by clumsy pasta, is instead enveloped in the finest of layers and drizzled with a rich but subtle sauce.
Meat courses are more traditional, but still show the signs of a kitchen at the top of its game. The rack of lamb is butchered to bone-gleaming perfection, and the meat itself is of the highest quality and cooked exactly to your taste. An indulgent chestnut and stracchino cheese crepe to accompany the meat provides richness quite brilliantly. And anyone coming to Il Convivio should be made to try the zucchini frittes - delicate and moorish slices of courgette deep fried in light tempura batter and seasoned impeccably.
Desserts are taken extremely seriously too, with homemade white espresso ice cream taking centre stage, and a rich chocolate and amaretti cake or a delicate parfait on offer to suit whatever space you might have left.
The Drink
The guys at Il Convivio are clearly in no doubt as to where the world's finest wines hail from, with over 75% of the wines available hailing from the home land. It's an excellent selection and the sommelier is right to take unashamed pride in the native grape. There's a short nod to the rest of Europe and the new world, but you get the impression they’re at the foot of the list for a reason. Prices are very reasonable with the top of the list still in double digits. A North Italian Valpolicella from the middle of the range, suggested by an extremely knowledgeable and proud sommelier, is a fine match for both seafood pasta and red meat. There’s a short range of wines available by the glass but the list is far better reading by the bottle, or bottles…
The Last Word
Il Convivio has it all – stunning food, sumptuous surroundings, charming staff and an excellent (if slightly partisan) wine list. To compare a restaurant with one of the great poets of the Middle Ages would be folly, but suffice to say the nine circles travelled by diners at Il Convivio are as far from infernal as it is possible to get.
Il Convivio has been reviewed by 2 users