In a prime spot to catch those with maps, cameras and caps as they amble from the British Museum towards Holborn, Il Fornello serves up a retro Italian experience at thoroughly modern prices.

The Venue
Just around the corner from one of the capital’s biggest tourist attractions Il Fornello’s understated exterior isn’t somewhere that would necessarily have its many passers-by clambering over each other to enter. Its humble, almost apologetic frontage with simple brown awning and menu stuck in the window doesn’t stand out, blending in unspectacularly between a pharmacy and an unspecified Southampton Row doorway. It does however hint at what lies within; namely an unassuming and unpretentious place in which to eat.

If you do venture inside, you can expect to be greeted by frantic Italian waiters, all of whom seem to be male, authentically-accented and advanced in years, which seems somehow reassuring - like they’ve been there ever since the restaurant opened thirty five years ago. And this is probably the case - everything about this restaurant is so charmingly untouched. Whether it’s the uncovered dessert trolley, the twee pictures of flowers adorning the walls or the postcards vying for space and wishing well from abroad, everything feels reassuringly traditional. Some might even say outdated, but then they’d be missing the point.

The Atmosphere
There’s almost a paradox at play with Il Fornello, in that it’s in one of London’s busiest tourist areas yet it feels so distinctly Italian and so unselfconsciously aimed at the tourist market. You can imagine holiday-makers from Rimini to Rome stumbling across this restaurant and feeling like they’ve arrived home a week early as staff scurry over to take their coats and sit them down with fellow diners. Consequently, complementing the many tourists tucking into Italian staples are a smattering of ex-pats enjoying a taste of home and conversing jovially with the waiting staff as if friends for years. Atmosphere wise, it’s everything an authentic Italian restaurant should be – bustling, friendly, animated and informal.

The Food
The things that give Il Fornello’s game away are the menu’s prices, and although the quality of the food isn’t bad, some dishes don’t offer great value. The snail starter at £7.95 is one such example, with five small snails cooked in a Bourguignonne sauce that just doesn’t have the richness of garlic or butter to warrant the price. The homemade pate is a much better option, with deliciously crumbly and flavoursome liver and pork being definitely worth trying at £5.50. It’s just a shame that it comes with the sort of bland white toast that thousands of families wake up to every morning.

Again, the mains show a little inconsistency in price and quality. Whereas the whole grilled river trout is superbly cooked, complemented by a rich white wine sauce and a smattering of crunchy almonds and good value at £11.45, the veal escalope alla Valdastona (£13.95) isn’t in the same league. The veal is okay, if a smidgeon tough, but the whole thing is smothered in grilled cheese that not only makes it look inelegant, but also overpowers any delicacy in the meat.

Desserts are good, especially the tiramisu (£4.75) which is generous, incredibly rich but so light that it’s easy to finish. It’s well balanced too, with the coffee, the sweetness of the sponge and the gentle bitterness from a dusting of cocoa combining impeccably. The assorted ice cream – a genuine Neopolitan – is decent enough, being creamy, sweet and a good sized portion for £4.75.

The Drink
Il Fornello boasts a good wine list, offering plenty of options if you want to keep things cheap, with gluggable and inoffensive house options coming in at just £10.95 for the bottle. The selection is not so great if you’re looking to throw caution to the wind and splash out, but it’s unlikely that you’ll be here to be extravagant anyway, so the plethora of mid-range bins are a perfectly adequate compromise.

The two Chiantis are the pick of the bunch, with the Riserva at £22.95 being worth a few extra pounds thanks to a delicious balance between acidity and fruit that makes it surprisingly easy to drink and pleasingly versatile – just like a Chianti should be. Coffee really is worth trying, but only if you like your espressos very, very strong. It’s incredibly full-bodied, good value at £2.25 and has a huge kick that will wake you from even the deepest torpor.

The Last Word
A reassuringly authentic Italian eatery that’s full of character and warmth, the fact that Il Fornello’s food doesn’t always match its prices shouldn’t be a reason to give this charming little restaurant a miss.

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