Barnes residents previously had to cross Hammersmith Bridge and head down King Street to sample the delights of Indian Zing’s formidable cooking, but now the chef and proprietor, Manoj Vasaikar, has made it easy for them by setting up his latest site on the south side of the Thames.

The Venue
Manoj Vasaikar has cultivated quite a reputation for himself through his Indian Zing restaurant – and deservedly so. This is actually his third restaurant – along with Zing there’s a Zest in Sunbury – and Indian Zilla is already turning away business during busy sittings and, even on a school night, it hums with happy chatter and contended customers.

Entering past frosted front windows, the main space is light and airy thanks to a conservatory glass ceiling, and there’s an additional darker, more clandestine dining room tucked away in the front corner that’s ideal for those in need of some discretion.

The Atmosphere
One of the noticeable differences from Indian Zing is that there’s plenty of elbow room, something that you have to sacrifice at times in Hammersmith. Tables are decked out in the same stiff white tablecloths, with high-backed leather chairs and wall-hugging banquettes providing seating. Even though it looks smart, the atmosphere is friendly and relaxed rather than taut and stuffy. Service is exemplary.

The Food
Replicating Indian Zing’s level of quality is never an easy thing to do, but Indian Zilla does so with flying colours. Every dish, from the hot and sour plump king prawn and oily aubergine starter to the best biriyani in town, is quite simply sensational. Even the simple pappadom (£4 for two people) is elevated to a higher level, by infusing cumin and pomegranate seed into the mix. Aside from the aforementioned prawn starter (£7.50), another good choice is the lamb sallii (£6.75), which is served kofta-style with the spiced, fragrant lamb concealing a neat filling of cottage cheese.

From the main courses, the biriyani (£16.50) is one of the most enjoyable versions of the dish you are ever likely to have eaten. Infused with a finely balanced mix of cloves, cardoman and cinnamon, the flavour is sweet, intoxicating and delicate (they ask your personal preference when ordering), the meat (chicken or lamb) is so tender it tastes like it’s been marinated for an aeon, and the rice is so tasty it’s a joy to eat on its own. Caramelised slivers of fried onions embossed into the surface add a guiltily enjoyable chewy topping to an outstanding dish. There’s plenty of seafood on the menu, jumbo prawns with curried new potatoes, pomegranate seeds and dill (£14) is a good example, and there are lots of vegetable sides including a near-perfect tadka dal (£5). Prices, perhaps most evident in the £16 for the biriyani, are higher than people expect to pay for a curry but a better comparison would be to compare Indian Zilla’s prices to Cinnamon Kitchen’s or an a la carte menu from a distinguished restaurant. In this respect, it compares favourably.

Those who discount desserts at Indian restaurants do so here at their peril because a faithfully recreated vanilla-infused rasmalai (£6.50) is on offer as is a wonderful remix of a bread and butter pudding (£6), with a heavy hand of masala seasoning giving it a new lease of life.

The Drink
Cocktails and bottles of Cobra are on offer, but the wine list is a wise choice. The special 2006 Crianza has plenty of complex oak and ripe fruit to make it well worth its £24 a bottle price tag.

The Last Word
Due to its more convenient tube links, you’re more likely to visit the Hammersmith branch of Manoj Vasaikar’s mini-empire. But if you live on the south side of the river Thames and you’re within reach of Barnes, make sure you hotfoot it to this world-class example of Indian cuisine while you can still get a table.

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