Isarn is owned by Tina Juengsoongneum, sister of the renowned Alan Yau the man behind some of the best Asian food in London. Although comparisons are inevitable Isarn occupies its own niche offering a combination of cuisine and price not yet catered for by one of Yau’s many ventures.

The Venue
Isarn utilises an uncomfortably narrow space on Upper Street to good effect. The white walls are offset by dark wood panelling and furniture. The ceiling is dominated by over sized, cut-out lampshades, which are replicated in miniature and suspended over each table. Design touches like this and the unusually shaped dishes carry aesthetic echoes of Yau’s establishments but Isarn has an elegance all of its own.

The Atmosphere
Isarn draws the typical crowd of twenty-somethings that you might expect to find in a restaurant on Upper Street. Being a relatively small restaurant though it fills up quickly and its popularity ensures that it remains busy throughout the evening. The service is attentive yet discreet although later on in the evening you can feel hurried to pay up and get out.

The Food
The starters menu consists primarily of Thai staples although the steamed scallops in soy make for a light starter and come beautifully presented on the half shell. The main course menu combines the usual Thai suspects with some welcome twists and creative additions. The seared tuna salad is accompanied by a delicate chilli passion fruit dressing, a surprisingly good combination, and the monkfish curry is an excellent alternative to more commonly found counterparts.

The Drink
Unfortunately, compared to the food the drinks offering at Isarn falls woefully short of the mark. The wine list is disappointing, offering a relatively limited selection especially for those on a budget, with the drinks easily adding a third onto the total bill.

The Last Word
Isarn is a better than average Thai restaurant but when it comes to combining style, substance and value for money you might be better off looking elsewhere in the family empire.

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