Situated in a busy but unexciting area of London, Island Grill is part of the luxury Lancaster London, just around the corner from Lancaster Gate tube station and facing Hyde Park.

The Venue
From its bold corner position, the modern split-level dining area has a long section running along the floor-to-ceiling windows (mainly comprising tables for couples) and then a more private raised area for groups, with views of the open plan kitchen. The hotel is undergoing a multi-million pound refurbishment, and the management have taken this opportunity to redesign the restaurant menu, opting for uncomplicated food at attractive prices. There's a fixed-price lunch and early evening menu available from noon until 7pm for a bargain £9.50 for two courses.

With all the glass, bare floor and neutral colour scheme, the smaller area can feel a little cold and lacking in atmosphere until it gets busy around eight o’clock. Even then, it’s mainly families with older children or larger groups of friends; certainly not a romantic dinner sort of place. Staff are biddable - dressed in distinctive striped pink and blue long sleeved shirts to reflect the casual ambience - but service is a bit erratic, even when they don’t seem particularly stretched.

The Food
The food is the high point here and explains the two AA rosettes. The menu, devised by chef Darren Marshall, manages to step up to the plate to be both interesting and traditional at the same time. The food is not particularly memorable, but it’s fresh and well executed, and portions are generous; none of your mimsy tiny mouthfuls here.

Fish starters could be moules marinieres, or calamari served with a red pepper salsa and a squeeze of lemon. The soup of the day – carrot – is served in a fat white bowl and is nicely savoury but perhaps a little over salted. A rustic breadbasket brought with good, peppery olive oil and balsamic vinegar makes a welcome accompaniment.

21-day-aged beef steak is the preferred option of many of the customers and it’s easy to see why: a choice of four sauces and several sides – including garlic mash, French green beans or fresh spinach - it’s comfort food at its best. Pork chop is served simply with mashed potato and pan-fried apple. Sea bass melts in the mouth, as it should, with braised fennel making a perfect accompaniment.

The homemade sweets are not disappointing either. Sticky toffee pudding is so rich and decadent that it might prompt a jog around the park, and a cup of decent espresso coffee rounds off the evening nicely.

The Drinks
The wine list is surprisingly good and carefully chosen. Whilst there are house wines for around £14, a rather special Gevrey Chambertin 2009 may be had for £48. Similarly, a decent white Sancerre Domaine Jean et Michael 2009 is pretty good value at £29.95. Prosecco and three champagnes are available too, and there are plenty of options available by the glass and carafe too.

The Last Word
You might not exactly want to propose to someone here, but it's a good spot for uncomplicated, well-executed food. Popular with casual diners, it’s a reliable choice if you find yourself in the area.

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