A simple formula works to Isolabella’s advantage: good prices + decent food = a no brainer!

The Venue
If there was an award for simple design then Isolabella would be a shoe in. The large venue takes up a big space on Red Lion Street but its muted sign doesn’t shout its presence too loudly. Inside, the clean, comfortable space comprises neat little rows of tables, with the high backed black chairs being the only real thing of interest among the sea of white and cream walls. Still, flashes of woods and the large windows to the front give things a charming brasserie edge that keep it from straying into the realm of boring.

The Atmosphere
Perhaps it’s Isolabella’s just-tucked-out-of-the-way location, but it’s rarely as busy or hectic as those restaurants on nearby High Holborn or Theobald’s Road. As such, it makes a great spot for a business lunch – something that many of the customers seem to have cottoned on to. The staff are incredibly courteous and welcoming and the service is nicely done with flashes of fine dining etiquette observed, which adds a nice dimension to the overall relaxed ambience.

The Food
Italiano all the way – and well priced at that. The lengthy menu covers everything you could think of, from meat and fish dishes to pizza and pasta. Best of all, most of the main courses come in at under £15 and the pasta and pizza dishes barely top a tenner. And, with a takeaway option covering the entire menu, it’s a good option for those offices that want lunch to come to them.

Highly recommended is the Americana pizza that, for £8.50, is more than enough for one person and possibly is even enough for two sharing, if you add on a couple of side dishes. The crisp base is perfectly pitched with a generous topping of gooey mozzarella and spicy sausage – just hot enough to add a kick without detracting from the sweetness of the tomatoes. Alternatively, the penne alla mozzarella is incredibly well priced for £8.95 and offers a good portion of baked penne with creamy, wonderfully stringy mozzarella, sweet tomatoes and a pleasant hit of hot chilli. Definitely more than your bog standard veggie dish.

For desserts, make sure you try the tiramisu – home made, of course. At less than a fiver, the creamy mascarpone and rich coffee and amaretto flavours linger like velvet in the mouth and it’s well worth the bloated feeling afterwards.

The Drink
Wine – Italian, of course – rules here and there’s a great variety of grape and region to tempt you. The bottles are well priced, too, with many coming in at under £20 and under £30 so you can pitch it to your budget. If you’re having a teetotal lunch then the coffee selection is a little disappointing for an Italian like this, with just the bog standard espresso, cappuccino and latte covered, although it’s bolstered by four different teas. Instead, be a bit naughty and opt for a little drop of liquori as a digestif – the Amaretto and Limoncello are two highlights and both come in under £3. Well, it would be rude not to…

The Last Word
Isolabella is a breath of fresh air for Holborn. If you want to escape the frantic streets nearby, this eatery provides refuge for an hour or two.

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