There is more to food than meets the eye – and there’s more to Japanese cuisine than raw fish. Welcome to one of London’s best gastro-philosophical experiences.

The Venue
Itadaki Zen looks like a traditional Japanese restaurant furnished in natural colours, with minimal decoration, but a lot can be said of the tables, chairs and paint – the venue was renovated by a volunteer group of followers of the Japanese agricultural philosophy this restaurant takes its name from. All the wooden tables have been made and fitted by hand, the chairs – the only thing already on site – were stripped bare of their varnish to reveal the natural wood underneath, and the walls were covered in an almost primordial mixture of lime, clay and straw, giving the walls a warm yellow tone. And, if this wasn’t enough, the darker wooden elements have been dyed using homemade sharon fruit extract, which explains why the menu smells faintly of fruitcake.

The stones used on the pavement outside come from the bed of river Thames, whilst the branch hanging in the window was rescued from a forest and hand polished. All this is spread over two floors; on the ground floor there is a long table against the wall for those eating by themselves. Opposite, there are a few tables with chairs and a wall bench for couples and groups. On the wall, paintings and photographs showcase the work of young emerging artists. Whilst the ground floor is bright, the basement has soft dimmed lighting and a low ceiling. Intimate and private, the space is furnished with handmade wooden objects as well. A bench borders three walls and the ceiling is covered with thin straw, whilst a couple of Japanese screens provide some light and divide the space.

The Atmosphere
Itadaki Zen is a Japanese philosophy emphasising organic, sustainable and self-sufficient agriculture, which is spreading quickly throughout the West. The restaurant, which is strongly affiliated with the Japanese chapter of the organization, is meant as a social project to spread the Itadaki philosophy and to provide a source of sustainable, organic food – the restaurant even has its own allotment where it grows the vegetables on the menu.

The atmosphere is consequently very relaxed and meditative. If there is a place deserving the label Zen, it’s definitely this restaurant! The delightful staff are particularly seraphic and you can read serenity in everyone’s face. Busier during the week than on weekends, customers are looking for a relaxed and private dinner – Itadaki Zen is best enjoyed if you are not in a rush and can take your time choosing from the many items on the menu. Expect a crowd of students, vegan couples treating themselves to an intimate dinner, macrobiotic chefs coming from other restaurants and other diners that appreciate philosophically calm atmosphere.

The Food
Unsurprisingly, the food at Itadaki Zen is entirely vegan. The philosophy behind the menu emphasises the smallest impact on the environment possible, hence meat, fish and dairy have been ruled out. However, the menu – printed on delicate rice paper and bound by thin wooden tiles – could not be longer or more varied – and you definitely won’t miss the raw fish. The recipes hail from Japan, Korea and other Asian countries and you are likely to have never tried anything like them before.

The shira-ae (£2.40) is a white salad made of seasonal vegetables with tofu and a thick sauce. Smooth and comforting, it has a rich flavour and comforting texture. The Hijiki-no-nimono (£3.40) looks like sea urchin but is actually warm simmered seaweed with fried tofu and vegetables; the seaweed is delicious and does not overpower the other flavours. The chapche (£6.50) are fried noodles made of sweet potatoes. Sticky and savoury, their brown transparent appearance is tantalizing but beware of the chopsticks! These noodles are hard to eat. The same is true for the zara udon with kakiage tempura (£5.50), these white, slippery noodles are served cold with vegetable tempura and come accompanied by shoyu sauce with sesame seeds, green onion and chives. The noodles are shockingly cold but great by themselves, dipping them into the sauce is not mandatory to enjoy them. The tempura, instead, is light and nicely dry.

The jijimi (£4.30) is another foreign experience. This pan fried pancake is served topped with vegetables and cut in small, bite-sized pieces. You can feel the oil coating the pancake and yet the dish is rather light and delicate in taste. The same is true for the spring rolls – the crispy, dry wrapping makes it clear that here everything is fried at the moment and not reheated at the last minute. The filling is fresh, nicely compact and it has crumbled tofu as an added ingredient. Finally, complying with the near necessity of serving sushi in any Japanese restaurant, Itadaki Zen offers sushi and nigiri (from £4.50 for four pieces). Amazing to look at, it looks just like raw fish but in reality, on top of the small mound of white sticky rice is raw pepper, tofu, okra and more. And the taste is just as novel as the presentation. Too much to choose from? Opt for a set dinner (up to £19 per person) and taste all their bestselling dishes.

To finish things off, try the delightful pumpkin pudding (£4), served in a ceramic cup with layers of a not too sweet, consistent, pumpkin pudding, a light and fluffy tofu cream and sweet, caramel-like syrup. The dessert, just like most of the dishes and the origami napkins, demonstrates an effort in presentation seldom seen even in posh restaurants. There may not be any meat or fish but at Itataki Zen there is nothing missing.

The Drink
Surprisingly, you can order (organic) wine, either by the bottle or by the glass. However, unless you are having a romantic tete a tete, opting for the organic fruit juice (£2 – £2.50) is probably a better bet since the wine can overpower some of the lighter, more sophisticated flavours. Organic cappuccinos and lattes (£2.30), served with soy milk, are another Western concession to coffee and are ideal to see you off after lunch. With dessert, try their special warm soy milk. Glutinous rice, whole pine nuts and crushed black sesame flavour thicken the unsweetened soya and make it a rich and filling drink of which half a glass is just enough.

The Last Word
A beacon of transcendental light in the often grimy world of commercial London restaurants, Itadaki Zen provides not only great service and philosophical enlightenment but also surprisingly delicious food. Those looking for their own slice of food heaven may have just found their paradise.

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