Chelsea’s latest restaurant does a modern take on good, old fashioned food.

The Venue
Located on the Kings Road, Jimmys is a bit of a trek from any of the nearest tubes, but then again, it is Chelsea and taxis and cars – or perhaps drivers – are the norm. It’s a small venue, almost boutique-like, and fits in well with the chi-chi clothing and furniture shops in the area. The restaurant is set over three levels, with the main dining area on the ground floor as well a mezzanine with some more tables and a basement with a bar and private dining area. The decor is modern, but not minimalist, with large front windows, glass barriers, mirrored walls and a couple of colourful decoupage paintings, whilst the seating is a mix of high, glossy cream-coloured benches and low plastic chairs.

It’s a bit trendy, but not overly so, with just a hint of girliness. The only problem is that the tables are quite small and they’re also cluttered; order a bottle of wine and a bottle of water and your table is close to overflowing, what with the cutlery, the glasses, the candle in a squat, square holder, the bread basket, the salt and pepper pots and the low round vase with a few purple orchids floating in it. Pretty, but there’s just not enough room!

The Atmosphere
As you’d expect with such a location, the clientele at Jimmys is very Chelsea. Older couples, small groups of loud businessmen and a few wealthy thirtysomethings sprinkled in as well, with about half the tables filled on a midweek evening. All the glass and mirrors surrounding you means that the atmosphere feels a bit clinical, but the friendly service makes up for it. Staff are good with recommendations as well, and not overbearing.

The Food
At the time of the restaurant’s opening, the head chef, Liam Cooper, is only 25, which surely deserves credit. Although you’d expect lots of frills, strange ingredients and general foodie trendiness from a chef that age, it’s a pleasant surprise to see that much of the food is of the classic, old fashioned ilk. There are six choices for starters and six for mains, which brings to mind Gordon Ramsay’s mantra – pick a few dishes, and do them well. Prices aren’t too bad, either, with two courses for £22 and three for £27.50 – obviously this is meant to be a place where you linger over your meal.

The smoked haddock and salmon ravioli starter consists of a single fat ravioli on top of a layer of creamy butterbean sauce, a really nice dish with well cooked pasta and a good blend of smoky fish. The pea and mint tartlet has a lovely and crumbly base, but the pea and mint mixture seems a little bland for such a vibrant colour and the vinegary relish overwhelms it a bit.

The vegetarian option, a macaroni and cheese with poached hen’s egg and truffle, is perfect if you’re in the mood for comfort food. The elbow macaroni pasta (the very same sort you used to make your mum necklaces out of when you were in school) is covered in a creamy cheese sauce, so gooey that it’s almost sticky, and the yolk from the egg runs into the noodles. The truffle is small, just a flake, really, but it has a nice, meaty flavour. For meat eaters the venison with creamy Savoy cabbage is another hearty dish, with thick slices of perfectly pink venison on top of a bed of crinkly cabbage that’s both savoury and sweet at the same time.

The chef’s specialty dessert is a Knickerbocker Glory, and it doesn’t disappoint. It’s served in a tall glass (with an appropriately long spoon) and is decorated with slices of crunchy toffee and a thin piece of dark chocolate, and the stripes of vanilla ice cream, raspberries and a sharply sweet raspberry sauce make it look like a giant candy cane. At the bottom, if you can manage it, is a layer of raspberry jelly as a reward for getting through it all. The Bakewell tart is another traditional pudding, with a layer of red berry jam and moist almond cake below of thick pastry crust sprinkled with thin almond flakes.

The Drink
The wine list is a reasonable one page, with many choices available by the glass. Prices are very decent for the area, ranging from £17.50 - £80. There are two house reds, a Merlot and a Malbec, both for £18.50. The Coleccion Malbec Michel Torino Cafayate from Argentina is light, with a fruity, plummy taste. Jimmys also offers three different cocktails that change every week.

The Last Word
The decor might be modern but the food is as traditional as you can get. Although you might not expect dishes like macaroni and cheese to show up on the menu of a new Chelsea restaurant, it’s a pleasant surprise.

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