100 Highbury Park,
Highbury,
London,
N5 2XE
(020) 7288 8716
The ViewLondon Review
Halfway up Highbury Park and settled comfortably amongst the middle class affluence of N5, Juniper Dining brings some really excellent food to North London, throwing in a great atmosphere and some pleasing prices whilst at it.
The Venue
Within easy reach of Arsenal, Canonbury and Highbury and Islington, Juniper Dining sits conveniently amongst good company, flanked by eateries that enjoy an impressive reputation with Highbury locals. Juniper Dining is more than worthy of its spot, not least thanks to an immediately welcoming interior that feels relaxed and homely, with brushed wooden flooring, gun metal grey walls, cream panelling and dark, warming woods making everything feel instantly informal. Affable staff and nicely shot black and white images of the surrounding area give it a neighbourly feel, whilst a cosy looking sofa table to the venue’s rear looks ideal for lounging on over brunch whilst reading the papers and poring over the deliciously appetising specials on the rustic blackboard.
The Atmosphere
Despite Highbury being one of the most financially dichotomous areas of London, you can pretty much guarantee to be seated amongst middle class foodies fully appreciative of the excellent food they’re tucking into. It has a real community ambience to it too, with plenty of repeat custom and warm welcome-back welcomes that make you feel like coming back yourself. Thanks to its proximity to the Emirates Stadium, match days often see it full of those more maligned Gooners cooing very, very quietly over the food, but this certainly isn’t a match day venue, it’s far too good for that. At all times though it feels exactly as it should, a welcoming, family-run neighbourhood restaurant that serves excellent food.
The Food
With a concise menu supplemented by specials and fish dishes decided only on what fish look good at the market that morning, Juniper Dining clearly uses excellent produce to create classic modern European dishes that enjoy what appears to be considerable expertise in the kitchen.
Starters are a suitably excellent place to begin, with the grilled Cornish squid (£6.50) elegantly placed amongst chorizo, rocket and sun blushed tomatoes in what’s a superbly balanced introduction. The squid is cooked impeccably, with its delicate sweetness contrasting nicely with the salty, robust chorizo, the peppery rocket and the richness of the tomato. The grilled goat’s cheese (£5) is sublime, with generous cuts of good quality cheese melting amidst herbs, mixed leaves, a sweet balsamic reduction and an absolutely exquisite beetroot relish with a fruity sweetness that almost justifies the trip on its own.
Mains are every bit as impressive, with a clam and tiger prawn linguine (£12.95) boasting big, plump prawns and clams cooked in garlic and parsley, immersed in a tomato and chilli sauce and served with deliciously al dente pasta. The only issue some may have is a lack of piquancy but others might enjoy the unmistakable presence of chilli, although without the kick. The lemon and thyme roasted chicken breast (£12.95) is absolutely faultless however. A seared, soft and tender chicken breast with hints of lemon and thyme is joined by unlikely companions of a pumpkin, coriander and spicy onion hash and a coconut curry sauce but it turns out to be a perfect fusion of east and west. The lemon and thyme are just delicate enough to not get in the way of the fragrant and sweet sauce, whilst the predominance of pumpkin and the delicacy of the coriander and spice make sure the whole dish stays beautifully balanced between hearty and exotic. It’s very good indeed.
Desserts (all £4.95) are, again, delicious. Ele’s baked chocolate pudding (named after the owner’s wife – she must be very sweet) is a decadent delight. Almost saccharine yet just light enough to keep inviting you back, it boasts a crisp top that gives way to gooey thick chocolate and raspberries on the side to add a bit of zing. The baked lemon tart is perhaps the finest though, with a rich, sweet lemon curd held between a crispy shortbread base and a really rather amazing bruleed topping that adds a gentle bitterness to make it that little bit more interesting and moreish.
The Drink
The restaurant boasts a well thought out wine list, concentrating more on a good selection of well-priced wines, as opposed to heading anywhere extravagant. Consequently you can expect quite a few bins between £14 and £30, with a really rather good Vin de Pays house red being simple enough and drinkable enough to go with many of the dishes, even the fish. For those looking for something a little more substantial then there’s an Australian shiraz at what appears to be great value at £24, or a medium bodied pinot noir, equally well-priced at £23 for the bottle.
The Last Word
Absolutely spot on for the area, Juniper Dining succeeds in serving very good food with precision, expertise and skill – it’s good to see the aesthetes of N5 are clearly not just limited to those weaving pretty patterns at the Emirates.
Juniper Dining has been reviewed by 7 users