The Kapok Tree’s pan-Asian menu has an emphasis on fresh ingredients, light dishes and zingy flavours - and thanks to the attached bar, the drinks menu is just as varied.

The Venue
The restaurant at the City Hotel has seen a lot of change of late, with incarnations as contrasting as a Caribbean restaurant, a European restaurant, and now a pan-Asian restaurant. Each has been fairly well received in their own rights, but a hotel restaurant just off Brick Lane is an understandably challenging position if the menu veers away from stereotypical Indian fare or tourist-friendly Brit-classics. The Kapok Tree, then, is a brave venture. The hotel’s latest restaurant takes its name from the cotton tree held sacred for its many uses which have taken it around the world, a parallel to what Chef Sekar has aimed for with the menu, bringing together flavours from throughout Asia (and a few others beside) without geographical or cultural restrictions.

The adjoining hotel bar has an expansive drinks list with innovative, flavour-fusing cocktails, and a lower level club has live acts and DJs playing late into most nights, so the hotel’s offerings are as fittingly varied as Kapok Tree’s menu – perhaps it’s finally found its match?

The Atmosphere
On entering The Kapok Tree, two things are apparent – the first suggests the reason for the quick-rotation of restaurants at the hotel; and the second shows why Kapok Tree must be given the chance to show itself. The decor is the first point. It’s smart but awkward, feeling corporate and soulless – enough to deter any passerby who might glance through the window. It could be nothing but a hotel restaurant. Thankfully, the second blow comes in a waft of exotic spice from the kitchen. Warm flavours of lemongrass, coriander and cumin fill the air with the colour which is lacking on the walls and immediately the menu becomes exciting. Staff are welcoming and keenly passionate – eager to explain the chef’s concept and make recommendations – useful given the length of the menu.

The Food
Indian, Chinese and Thai flavours dominate the pan-Asian menu, and despite the variations, sit alongside each other well, particularly in the assortment of dhabha-style Indian street-food dishes, and starters which can be ordered to share so the fresh, punchy flavours can be allowed to mingle. Aloo tikki (£4.25) is a kind of mashed potato fritter spiked with chilli and spice. Presumably deep-fried, but not at all greasy, these are just stodgy enough to constitute comfort food but still fresh enough to be in keeping with the light, zingy menu. Bhel puri (£4.25) continues along the same lines. This crispy puffed rice is a favourite in Indian and Bangladeshi families, but virtually unknown elsewhere. Served on a spoon ready to eat, they’re not a million miles away from Rice Krispies but with sumptuous onion, chilli and tomato flavours coming through are certainly something to try.

Onion bhajis (£4.50) are back on more familiar ground, and a good example of how they should (but often don’t) taste. Light fritters, rather than heavy dumplings, the onion comes through strongly as well as coriander and spiky, fresh green chilli – a delight. Mint raita and a refreshingly light mango chutney are nice additions perfect for dipping, though the bhaajis are good without. Tandoori lamb chops (£7.75) are another highlight of the Indian selection which seems to be Chef Sekar’s speciality. Long marinated and cooked in mustard oil, the spices add subtle depth to the smoky, charred lamb, which is well cooked but meltingly tender. Thus far quite traditional, another starter of raw papaya salad (£4.25) is the first real sign of fusion. Raw green papaya, peanuts and coriander are combined as per the Thai favourite, but dressed alternatively with honey and miso – a cross-Asian combination which makes a pleasantly sweet and refreshing accompaniment to many of the spicy dhabha dishes.

The impressive selection of soups which tag onto the starter menu veer back to the traditional, but span China and Thailand incorporating a range of hot and sour soups, spicy Thai Tom Yam, and a crab noodle soup with Chinese flavours. Light, fresh and tangy; these soups epitomise much of the rest of the menu.

Main courses are where the fusion really gets going. Alongside primarily Indian and Chinese options, British and European influences can be seen in dishes such as drunken salmon (£16.50) served with noodles on a bed of samphire and fennel, not to mention a few anomalies in the form of rib eye steak (£19.50) and barbequed spare rib (£15.50), surely there simply to please the less adventurous hotel guests, but a shame to see alongside such creative dishes as rrawn dum pukht biriyani (£18.50), which is an inventive take on the classic layered biriyani served with boiled eggs. Instead of baked, layered rice served with boiled eggs, the rice and prawn combination is rolled in a thin omelette and baked allowing it to steam until just-cooked. A similar twist on green Thai curry sees sea bass steamed with vegetables in a Chinese-style bamboo steamer served with a pot of aromatic green Thai curry sauce (£12.50) – the fish and vegetables are just-cooked and super fresh again creating a light dish out of what could be a much heavier one.

With this emphasis on light, fresh food, there could be the risk of mere fruit for pudding – but thankfully this isn’t the case. Options include fusion dishes such as five spice chocolate mousse (£5.50) and date pancake with chilli ice cream (£5.50) alongside super-sweet Indian favourites gulab jamun (£5.50) and some less Asian offerings such as tiramisu (£5.50) and apple turnover (£6.50). As with main courses, the Asian (and perhaps particularly Indian) options are the way to go.

The Drink
The drinks at Kapok Tree are supplied by the adjoining hotel bar so the choice is impressive. Though not on paper a natural match for the food, in many ways the equally punchy flavours are quite well matched. A Camomile Martini (£9) made with Tanqueray gin and a homemade camomile syrup, is thirst-quenching and refreshing, though something of an acquired taste. An eponymous City Lassi (£7.50) blends yoghurt, coconut cream, fruit juice and vodka and makes a more fitting, at least semi-traditional accompaniment to a lot of the Indian influenced dishes. A few Asian beers and lagers are also available (from £3.30 per bottle) as are a range of spirits, some non-alcoholic cocktails and a comprehensive wine list (starting at £14 for a bottle and £4 for a glass). The drinks list is where The Kapok Tree finally sees some benefit to being connected with the hotel bar.

The Last Word
The Kapok Tree’s Asian fusion menu and hotel setting opens the restaurant up to some criticism, but a taste of what’s on offer will surely dispel this – The Kapok Tree serves fresh, punchy Asian dishes with novel twists but no pretentions. A real ‘don’t knock it until you’ve tried it’ kind of a restaurant that deserves to do well.

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