6 Topsfield Parade ,
Crouch End,
London,
N8 8PR
(020) 8341 2120
The ViewLondon Review
Affordable, authentic food prepared by staff who do not scrimp on labour.
The Venue
Even with its white-painted exterior, Khoai Cafe could easily be obscured by the island of plants that sit in front of it. To add to this inconspicuousness, this little eatery is tucked away on a side street in Crouch Hill.
The spacious interior is furnished with polished light wood tables that give off a slight unused gleam. Coupled with the off-white tiled floor and artificial vines, it evokes the image of a Greek taverna. But the dark green bar at the end, pictures of Vietnam and the Vietnam-influenced windchimes state otherwise.
The Atmosphere
The lunch crowd can seem non-existent at first, but after a while you’ll see Vietnamese expats popping in to greet the friendly waitress who’s plucking tails off bean sprouts at the back table to help ease the kitchen's workload. Khoai seems to be more like a household than a restaurant.
The Food
The extensive menu teems with elaborately described Vietnamese dishes. The Bun Hue (£4.45 small, £5.45 large), is a spicy flat rice noodle soup that could easily turn on the sniffles. The dish is served traditional Vietnamese style with a side plate of plump sprouts, Thai basil, sliced chillies, and, for the lack of lime, a wedge of lemon. The soup is like a less sour version of the Thai tom yam, and comes with painstakingly de-veined prawns. Khoai is clearly not stingy with labour.
The sesame prawn toast (£2.95) comes in a portion of six triangular-halved bread slices (crust on). The toast is topped with chewy prawn paste and generously studded with sesame seeds. It is a well-balanced and properly portioned dish as it is crisp, not soggy with oil, and served on a bed of lettuce with a sweet and spicy fish sauce-based sauce. If the large menu selection proves to be overwhelming, one could have a prix fixe two-course lunch meal for £7.45.
The Drink
The wine list is not as vast as the food: there are only seven choices each of red and white wines, all of relatively unknown labels. The house wines are both French, priced at £11.25. There is also a choice of beers, including three Vietnamese beers (from £2.95 to £3.50) and the quintessential Tiger beer (£2.95).
The Last Word
Khoai Cafe's reserved location has not stopped it from gaining a reputation - one of cheap and authentic food, and homely service.
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