For more then 25 years chef Pierre Koffmann was the reigning king of the capital’s restaurants scene thanks to La Tante Claire. Now, after a brief appearance on Selfridges’ rooftop, he returns – hopefully for good – with Koffmann’s at The Berkeley.

The Venue
Set over several levels, Koffmann’s at The Berkeley is a sophisticated looking place, with plenty of cream colours and large vases of fresh flowers. Starting on the ground floor, a set of stairs leads lower and lower still, almost looking as if M.C. Escher was a design consultant.

The Atmosphere
It all works though, and the different levels cleverly lend a slightly different atmosphere depending on where you dine. Staff are spot on, with the perfect balance of professional service and friendly demeanour. They’re happy to advise on certain dishes and make suggestions.

The Food
The menu at Koffmann’s is French with a British twist, with choices like foie gras side by side with black pudding. Some of Pierre Koffmann’s classic dishes make an appearance as well, such as pig’s trotter stuffed with sweetbreads (£27) and scallops with squid ink (£16/£28), the latter of which is as well cooked as it is visually interesting. The squid ink adds slight saltiness but for the most part it’s the creamy flavour of the scallops that stands out. The foie gras terrine (£14) is decent, with the rich, decadent flavour you’d expect, but it’s slightly too cold and hard to spread on the accompanying baguette. A piece of brioche with small, embedded slices of pig’s trotter makes a surprise appearance but for all its unusual components the bread is strangely dry.

For mains, the braised beef cheeks (£20) is outstanding, the beef cooked perfectly so that it seems to fall apart at the touch of the fork. The smooth, buttery mash is a great accompaniment. Rabbit (£20) is less impressive. Although there’s crisp skin on the outside and tender meat within, the large amount of stuffing detracts a bit from the flavour of the rabbit. Main courses are accompanied by small Le Creuset pots of veg, which is a nice touch as you don’t have to order sides. For dessert, the fig tart with ice cream is highly recommended, as is the selection of cheese. The options change daily and, although the choices are predominantly French, the Stilton from Nottinghamshire is well worth trying. Ordering the cheese, however, is a slightly awkward affair which involves staff struggling to move around a table – hopefully a trolley is on back order.

The Drink
The wine list – French, of course – aims to complement the rustic dishes on the menu and features many artisan suppliers. Prices start from just under £20 a bottle and reach nearly £1,000 for a choice from the selection of fine wines.

The Last Word
London foodies waited with a fevered anticipation for the return of the Michelin starred chef and a restaurant with the name Koffmann on it has a lot to live up to. Those expecting miracles may be disappointed but even so Koffmann’s is well worth a visit, even if it’s just to see what all the fuss is about.

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