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The Londoner's Guide to London
08 September 2008
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Konnigans

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344-346 Old York Road,
London,
SW18 1SS

0872 148 5383 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byDaniel Thomas14/03/2008
Situated in the heart of Wandsworth town, Konnigans is an up-and-coming brasserie, offering pleasant ambience and an interesting menu.

The Venue
Konnigans lives up to the smart reputation of its trendy location, Wandsworth High Street. Its decor is warm and welcoming and a pleasant brasserie feeling pervades, with wooden floors, a bright and breezy colour scheme and tasteful art-lined walls. You’re met by a long bar as you go in, and the restaurant is fairly big, with three main dining areas and tables outside.

The Atmosphere
This restaurant has a really friendly vibe, with staff who are attentive, if a tad slow. None the less, you will leave feeling well looked after. It suffers somewhat from its slightly out-of-the way location with people not arriving until after nine. However, by ten the place is busy. This may have something to do with the younger local crowd that eat here who in turn give the place a really buzzy atmosphere.

The Food
This restaurant is admirably trying to carve out its own niche. The menu is varied and by and large good, with only a few duds on offer. On the down side prices are a tad steep. Starters are on the whole good, with panko-breaded Camembert with cranberry compote, a delightful mix of salty and sweet tastes, and rosemary skewered scallops and salmon on mango and papaya salad, a unique east-west fusion of flavours.

For mains the huntsman's rabbit pie, topped with creamy mash and melted gruyere, is delicious, the meaty filling tender and well balanced with the topping, if served a little too hot. The gremolata-crusted lamb rump is succulently cooked, and served with slightly unusual spiced broccoli, and lush sweet potato mash with thyme and honey jus. Tostada, one of the two vegetarian offerings, is a tasty fajita filled with roasted sweet potato, spicy bean and baby corn topped with guacamole and sour cream - though slightly predictable in taste, it’s hearty and satisfying. A special of octopus is cooked perfectly in a tasty garlic and tomato marinade, though the sole accompaniment of new potatoes makes the dish visually uninspiring.

Puddings are for the most part fantastic. Banofee pie is creamy and boasts an extra-gooey toffee and banana filling on a moist biscuit base. The cheesecake is sumptuous, with an unusually crumbly base and light fluffy filling. While the rhubarb crumble is a little too tart, the delicious cheese selection comes in a very generous portion.

The Drink
Konnigans’ wine list is quality. The house claret, Chateau Tour de Graves, is smooth and reasonably priced at £13.95, and the vanilla laden El Coto Rioja is also a treat at £15.95. And if you feel like splashing out, give the fruity Beaujolais Cru a go at £23.95. Standout whites included the dry Macon Village Chardonnay at £20.95 a bottle, and the crisp and herby Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon, made by an award-winning grower, at £18.95.

The Last Word
Konnigans is by and large enjoyable - the atmosphere is pleasant, the food original and for the most part good, if a little pricey. Plus, the service is very friendly. This area is becoming more and more upmarket by the second, so it check out before prices go up!
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