2 Acton Street,
Kings Cross,
London,
WC1X 9NA
0871 971 4145
The ViewLondon Review
One of London’s most glamorous eateries is located in the fairly unremarkable-looking Prince Albert and is one of the city’s most talked about restaurants.The VenueCombining his desire to improve diners’ sense of their food with a strong loyalty to his North London roots, Oliver Rowe’s new venue, Konstam, sources (very nearly) all of its food and drinks from within the London tube’s six zones. A gimmick, but, my, what an original one.
The AtmosphereInside, thousands of dangly silver beads float over the sea of heads, making you feel you’re perhaps caught in a belly-dancer’s chain. The walls are marine green, and surround the room’s centrepiece, the open kitchen.
The FoodKonstam’s strength is that shock value at just how much you can actually source from our very own Big Smoke: ostrich meat from Chesham (zone six, just), bread from Ponders End, beer from Battersea Brewery, even herring, bass and sole from the Thames, depending on the season.
Difficulties, such as olive oil (sadly, there are no olives grown in London), are sidestepped with fine replacements, such as nutty rapeseed oil, while impossible exceptions to the rule are rare (sugar comes from East Anglia, some wine comes from Cobham).
The Last WordIf you want a restaurant that celebrates food’s origins, quality, even its (without sounding too much like some crazy hippy) personality, head to Konstam. Just phone ahead to find out whether you need your crash helmet and sharpest elbows first.