The queues to get into Koya are a testament to the popularity of this Japanese eatery that specialises in udon, thick white noodles made from wheatflour.

The Venue
Squeezed in amongst far more colourful venues on Frith St, Koya looks unremarkable from the outside. Inside it is similarly austere, with plain wooden furniture and little in terms of décor.

The Atmosphere
The restaurant is always full, to the point where tables are shared by different groups of people as the staff struggle to fit everyone in. Turnaround is fast, with diners chomping their way through their meal and promptly leaving, allowing the next batch of punters to enter. There’s a mixture of Japanese diners, tourists and Soho workers in attendance.

The Food
Unlike other noodle eateries, Koya specialises in udon noodles alone. Here they are served either atsu atsu, hot noodles in hot broth, hiya atsu, cold noodles with a separate bowl of hot broth, or hiya hiya, cold noodles with cold sauce to either dip or pour over.

The smoked mackerel and leaves float in hot soup along with the noodles; the smoky smell and taste of the fish are perceptible, but not overpowering. Pork and miso paste arrives in the form of hot broth containing a few pieces of flavoursome pork that are beginning to disintegrate in the liquid, while the cold noodles are served on a bamboo mat. Conquering these thick, seemingly never-ending noodles with chopsticks is an artform as Japanese couples demonstrate by lowering their heads close to the bowl as they eat. They tend to finish their meals within ten minutes whilst those with less expert mastery of the culinary tool are still attempting to get their noodles into the bowl.

Amongst the side dishes are appealing plates of braised pork belly in cider, which consists of large, slightly sweet-tasting chunks of tender pork on the bone, with a dollop of fiery mustard on the side. The ‘fish & chips’ is a Japanese take on the British staple: small pieces of cod in crispy tempura with thinly sliced lotus leaf chips and a bowl of rice vinegar to dip.

The Drink
Hot and cold sake, shochu and plum wine can be ordered, as well as Kirin or Yebisu beer and red or white wine. Cold oolong tea and homemade hot ginger are also available. Interestingly, water is filtered on site, avoiding the need to purchase plastic bottles.

The Last Word
It’s no wonder there is a constant stream of people coming and going from Koya; each dish is thoroughly well prepared and service is surprisingly fast. A meal for two with alcohol is around £45.

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