It is a multi-national affair here: chefs prepare sushi for diners from all over... except Japan.

The Venue
The steam from the freshly-cooked rice fogs up a good portion of the glass walls, making it difficult to assess what lies beyond; it could be the curiosity that saves Kulu Kulu Sushi from being overlooked, or its location on a dark side street off Covent Garden and obscure comic-sounding name. All of these do sound like plausible factors leading to an undiscovered gem.

The restaurant consists of a lopsided-W-shaped conveyor belt that snakes across two small rooms. With a seating capacity of no more than 30 people, space, and therefore service, is a premium. The minimalist interior could be a by-product of the two.

But the interior works, literally: the well-worn tea station in the corner still churns out scalding liquid, the hastily-posted price-indicating plates that sit on the lowered ceiling is useful if you squint, and the growing wall dedicated to coats has not fallen over, nor has it been the cause of any run-ins. In this environment where aesthetics are the sacrificial fish, the only artistic effort is found in the remaining fifty-variety-of-perfect-looking-sushi posters. These should really be taken off though, as they only serve to mock at how lacking in variety Kulu Kulu's menu is.

The Atmosphere
You'll be surprised at how difficult it is, even in such a compact space, to try to attract a server's attention. It could be the humid air that slows them down terribly, or the multi-tasking they have to engage in – greeting the newly-arrived customers, manning the cash machine or routinely popping their head through the kitchen curtains to ensure no man is down.

It is relatively quiet early Friday nights, but the pace begins to pick up as the night grows on. It does not take long for the place to fill up with clients of all nationalities, but unfortunately Japanese people seem to be nowhere in sight.

The Food
Mediocre kaiten (conveyor-belt) sushi served at irregular speeds and sizes. Although some of the fish plated look and taste fresh enough, the experience is thwarted by the large, crumbly pieces of rice that dive into the sauce plate before actual contact. The kitchen occasionally impresses with a freshly fried item, like the deep fried salmon bones. The trick to nab this rare dish is to sit right at the beginning of the belt. If you absolutely must, the salmon sushi and sashimi are the least mediocre here. Plates go for as low as £1.80, and it will take approximately £12 to satisfy one medium-sized stomach.

The Drink
Self serve, all you can drink green tea - that is if you can spot the signs to it, and if you can drink it without scalding your tongue. You can nurse your tea until its drinkable or go the way of another route - order an icy cold beer.

The Last Word
The classic example of what affordable Japanese food in London has become - a filler, not a cuisine. If the conveyor belts do not manage to drive that home, the large rice portions and mediocre quality should.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (1)