For generous and homely food La Cabana holds its own against the plethora of choices in Brixton. The Colombian dishes are flavoursome, ridiculously good value and will certainly never leave you hungry.

The Venue
Arriving off the often bleak Coldharbour Lane there’s not too much to recommend the Brixton Village Market from the outside. But outsides are deceptive and this undercover market is rapidly becoming a hot spot, not just for Brixton, but for London.

The Atmosphere
You could be forgiven for thinking La Cabana was a Colombian-run greasy spoon as the restaurant feels more like a café - and a simple one at that. It can get a little draughty, it’s certainly not the place for a posh date, but the welcome is warm and genuine and the savoury smells are encouraging.

The Food
It is bewilderingly easy to over-order at La Cabana. The menu is a little cryptic and the waiter may not always be able to explain easily what the dishes consist of. As a result you may find the table groans underneath a feast of dishes that consist of many parts - all of generous proportions. The empanadas (£1.50 each) are glorious examples of the pastry dish - golden corn turnovers stuffed fat with rich slow-cooked shredded beef - and are large and satisfying enough to leave you worried about the next course almost immediately. Similarly, starters such as the yucca frita con salsa Huancaina (£2.50) - which consists of fried cassava with a rich cheese sauce, would be just the ticket (Colombian-style) for a steadying end to a night out, rather than a prelude to a hearty meal.

Colombian food is heavy with tubers, pulses and grains, many of which play an equally important roll in the cuisine of the Caribbean, and in the markets surrounding La Cabana these staples are always on display. Cassava, plaintain, beans and cornmeal provide the bulk on a Colombian menu and so are treated creatively – cornmeal appears in corn bread, in fried dumplings and as pastry. Plantain is cooked into robust crisps, pan-fried or used in soups. A main meal at La Cabana is routinely accompanied by plantain cooked two ways, cassava, rice, beans and salad. To ‘accompany’ the sides, try the banjeja paisa (£10), a groaning plate of pork belly, salty pork sausage, a perfectly fried egg, spiced minced beef, a savoury rich stew of red beans, and sliced avocado. Similarly the cazuela de mariscos (£10) is a huge bowl of tomato and coconut milk stew full of prawns, mussels and fish.

The Drinks
Non-alcoholic drinks are varied and delicious. The sugarcane with lemon (£1) satisfies for summer and of course the hot chocolate (£1.80) is a cut above in the cold months. BYO is welcome.

The Last Word
The carpark-like frontage, or the specials blackboard out the front announcing the tripe soup special may turn off the less inquisitive diner, but the food should not. At the heart of this restaurant is generosity – of the portion sizes and of the flavours.

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