Visit the aptly named Gateway to India and be instantly transported from Marble Arch to Pondicherry.

The Venue
Although being located close to Marble Arch places La Portes Des Indes in a prime central location, the surrounding area is somewhat desolate and you might struggle to find a suitable venue for a pre-dinner tipple. Lucky then that La Portes des Indes is a destination in itself. This is a Blue Elephant venture and those familiar with the Blue Elephant in Fulham will immediately see the similarities in both decor and style.

The restaurant appears deceptively small but once you descend the stairs into the Jungle Bar, fully kited out with mock tiger skin rugs, you start to realise there is much more to Portes des Indes than meets the eye from the outside. The restaurant itself occupies two spacious floors with a grand marble staircase connecting the two; if you can try and get a table upstairs by the balcony. The decor is opulent without being overdone and between the water features, artwork and foliage it is hard not to feel as though you are being transported back to Colonial India.

The Atmosphere
Such a large venue could easily feel sterile but the combination of the furnishings and a large crowd means it avoids this particular trap. Diners are able to talk comfortably and tables are far enough apart to make intimacy possible. The service is very slick despite the fact you can expect to be served by a number of waiters throughout the course of the evening. However, the constant refilling and rearranging of wine glasses can be a little much if you are in full conversational flow.

The Food
The cuisine is a French Indian fusion as can be found in the former French colonies; in particular that of Pondicherrry. As such the menu is a little more unusual than your average curry house although there are plenty of more traditional options to choose from. The a la carte menu is extensive but if you are a first time visitor then they offer a fantastic sharing menu which allows you to sample four starters and four main courses. This is a great option for a group but works equally well for a couple, although make sure you are hungry as portions are far from small.

Of the starters the Parsee Fish is a clear highlight. The fish is steamed in banana leaves and has a melt in the mouth quality; the accompanying chutney makes a tasty contrast to the delicate flavour of the sole. By comparison the scallops are less successful. Although they are again cooked to exactly the right consistency the mild saffron sauce is a little bland. Of the mains the Poulet Rouge is touted as a house special and justly so. The beautifully tender chicken comes in a very moreish creamy sauce which can be mopped up by the light, crisp naans. Unfortunately the vegetarian Saag Paneer (sauteed spinach and cottage cheese) seems more like a filler dish than something to be enjoyed in its own right. Whilst India may not be famed for chocolate mousse, Portes Des Indes should be. The more adventurous however, may prefer the sweet samosa.

The Drink
There is a good selection of wine from house to premier to suit all budgets. The house white works well with the sampler menu; fresh and crisp but enough flavour not to be washed out by the food. There is also a cocktail menu so if you have time before dinner you can indulge yourself in the jungle bar downstairs. If you can find the room be sure to enjoy a liqueur coffee which is worth ordering for the chocolate dipped mango accompaniment alone.

The Last Word
La Portes des Indes combines great food with a unique dining experience and deserves it's continued popularity. Whilst it may not be a cheap night out it should be one to remember.

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