27 Bedford Road,
Clapham,
London,
SW4 7SH
(020) 7737 4066
The ViewLondon Review
La Terraza is a simple, if not particularly accomplished, neighbourhood Spanish restaurant - and one that could easily fix what few problems it does have.
The Venue
Decor wise, La Terraza does play on its Spanish theme, but it doesn't veer into the clichéd. Yellow walls mix with orange chairs and salmon floor tiles with plenty in the way of space spread across a dining and bar area. The plentiful foliage is pretty and adds a certain something to the décor but there’s one major failing: the table layout. The white and pink tablecloths and gleaming glassware is overkill for what should be a laid back Spanish space and the tables are a little too squashed in, which seems crazy given it’s rarely full-to-bursting. It would be better if they opened up the space more and gave you room to breathe and stripped it back to simple basics to create more of an impact. The big bonus of the space is the large outdoor alfresco dining area, set back off the main pavement to offer a Mediterranean appeal.
The Atmosphere
As a family-run restaurant, La Terraza does have a certain inherent charm; although more could be made of it on the menus and with the greeting, which isn’t always the warmest, which makes what can be slow service all the worse. The clientele comprises mainly locals - which is usual for the area not well served by a tube. Later in the evening the music cranks up and it takes on a somewhat tackier atmosphere as a Spanish bar, which is borderline cringe-worthy.
The Food
Although you can opt for a more traditional three course menu (priced at £10-£19 per main course, focusing on Spanish classics), it’s the tapas menu that really shines. Dishes cost anywhere from £1.20 to £7.50 and the choice is vast. Highlights include an incredibly fresh serrano ham or some wonderfully meaty, sweet prawns grilled and served in their shells. They offer some unusual options like octopus and tripe alongside more usual classics such as some delicious potato croquettes with a fluffy middle and crisp breadcrumbed exterior which shows off the quality of seasoning of these dishes. If you’re not massively hungry - and want to keep it cheap - then olives, breads and cheeses make up some filling but low-priced choices.
The Drink
It’s refreshing to see that La Terraza has stuck to its guns with an entirely Spanish wine list, including some older bottles and unusual grape varieties and regions. However, if money is a concern then the house wines come in at just £11 a bottle. They also have a nice selection of Reserva wines and dry sherries.
The Last Word
La Terraza could be a top-notch neighbourhood Spanish restaurant with a few small tweaks; as it is, it’s a decent enough eatery with potential.
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