13 Charlotte Place,
Soho,
London,
W1T 1SN
(020) 7637 3347
The ViewLondon Review
There is something unquestionably cool and almost indefinable in the atmosphere of Lantana, one of the best secret cafes hiding away in Fitzrovia.
The Venue
Lantana faces onto Charlotte Place, a small pedestrian alley able to shut off, albeit momentarily, the central London traffic. A few basic wooden benches and tables are spread on the cobbled stones, under the large shop tent. Don’t stop here, though, the best seats are inside, even when the sun's shining bright. Lantana’s decor follows a widespread trend - just as bars aim at impressive over-the-top décor, contemporary cafes like this are choosing the opposite direction, with discreet white backgrounds and natural, minimal interiors, to leave as much mental space as possible. Lantana embraces this, and the wooden furniture is basic and uncomplicated, with a black line drawing the only decorative element in the white surroundings.
The Atmosphere
This Australian venture is so succesful that an adjacent take-away service opened recently. The crowd is varied, so expect to see mothers with children popping in at any hour, as well as hip media types and well-to-do local residents who have made this their brunch hunt. There'll be groups, couples, families and individuals, all on hand to mix neon colours and trainers with designer brogues and cashmere.
The staff seem just as self conscious, with service that's slightly impaired by the waiters' attitudes, but Lantana manages to remain a great urban retreat for drinks and bites.
The Food
Lantana offers great options for breakfast (£2.50-£9.50), lunch (£4.50-£11) and brunch (£2.50-£12), with equal space given to the natural and the slightly naughty, so pick your side. The former are surprisingly tempting, especially the toasted muesli with grated apple, yoghurt, dried cranberries and honey. However, how can you say no to corn fritters with crispy bacon and corn salsa, baked eggs with chorizo and spicy tomato sauce or brioche toast with vanilla poached pears and raspberry ricotta cream?
Other options sit in between, like banana bread with berry compote or coconut poached chicken salad with mango and avocado salsa, while the rest of the menu strikes as creative and even a little exotic. The fresh salads are an effortless burst of vitamins and colours, and dishes like the brown sugar cured salmon with fennel, ruby grapefruit and baby herb salad, or the sesame crusted pork loin with Asian greens and onion relish speaks of the innovative cultural and gastronomical Australian landscape.
The Drink
Lantana embodies the best of Australian coffee, with cappuccinos, lattes and espressos (from £2) all being of the highest quality. Beside the staple hot drinks, Lantana has also acquired an alcohol license, enabling you to pick from a succinct but impressive list of wines (£4-£7.50 per glass or £16.20-£30 per bottle), or quality beers (£3.40-£3.90) like Asahi, Menabrea and Cooper's Pale Ale.
The Last Word
Excellent food, perfectly executed hot drinks, a secluded location and plenty of space in which to retreat - if you're looking for your slice of peace, you may have just found your little haven in central London.
Lantana has been reviewed by 2 users