Don’t call yourself a foodie until you’ve been to a Joel Robuchon restaurant. The London outpost of L’Atelier stresses quality and simplicity above all else, and it makes for one of the best gastro experiences in the world, let alone the capital.

The Venue
Located on West Street, Joel Robuchon couldn’t have chosen a more controversial site for his London venture, given its close proximity to The Ivy. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon is spread over three floors. The translation of atelier is workshop or artist’s studio, and it is downstairs that the artists of this venue can be watched at work. The ground floor is a Japanese-inspired open kitchen arrangement with the chefs busying themselves in front of you preparing the food, and for the more interactive among you describing what they’re doing and the origins of the ingredients they’re using. On the first floor, there is a more formal dining room set-up, with an open kitchen area as well, still in keeping with the Japanese red and black decor. This is repeated again in intimate Le Salon on the top floor, a bar where those not lucky enough to get in for dinner, or who just want to kill time waiting for their table, can enjoy a drink.

The Atmosphere
The expression legendary is bandied around too often when talking about restaurants and chefs, but Joel Robuchon has eighteen Michelin stars and his Paris branch of this endeavour is ranked at 14th Best Restaurant in the World in the San Pellegrino Awards. That gives London a lot to live up to, and the atmosphere can feel a little staid and overly formal as a result. When you’re watching food being tossed in the air or manipulated decoratively in front of you, it would be nice if more of the diners got involved and chatted to the chefs while they’re at work. It is nice however to see the crowd is principally made up of foodies and Robuchon enthusiasts rather than Z-list celebrities and posers as can be the case in some London restaurants. The staff can not be faulted either in terms of their passion for the product or expertise, you’ll even find the girl who takes you up and down in the lift is keen to ask you if you’re eating, if you’ve been before and what’s on the menu that night.

The Food
The French-inspired menu at Joel Robuchon has influences from Spain and Italy, all of it simply executed and focused on supreme quality of the ingredients. The a la carte menu is probably best if you’re hungry, though you can also order items from the tasting menu such as Iberian ham, sea bass tartare, and beef carpaccio. You’ll need to order a few of these to feel satisfied though, and if you want to enjoy the full experience you’re better off going for the full menu.

The most enjoyable starter is the foie gras terrine, served in a wine jelly with figs. The figs are actually unusually soft and rich, making an excellent accompaniment to the strong and creamy foie gras in the terrine. It may be an acquired taste, but the muddled wine jelly adds some sweetness and makes it incredibly moreish. The courgettes and tiger prawns are just as satisfying too, with a fresh, lightly grilled prawn and courgettes cooked just long enough to soften, and not so long they become soggy. Starters cost £12 and upwards.

Moving onto the meat or fish courses, you’ll be struggling to choose between temptations such as beef sirloin, scallops or quail stuffed with foie gras. A safe choice is the steak tartare with hand cut chips, which tastes rich and strong. The meat is not sliced too thinly, and it retains a strong texture as a result, and has a slight spicy kick as a result of its marinade. It costs around £18. Another favourite is the John Dory fish dish, which is served with different vegetables depending on the day, such as leeks and aubergine. This fleshy fish is more delicate than other white fishes such as sea bass or cod, and needs to be cooked very lightly to retain flavour. In this case, it’s grilled lightly and combined with mild sweet tastes of the leeks and aubergines, which are a subtle accompaniment to the fine flakes of this fish.

The portions here are not huge, so you’ll have room for dessert, which cost £10. The coffee, hazelnut and chocolate parfait is a delight in small doses, with rich and heady flavours, so intense and strong that it gives you a bit of a rush as it melts on the tongue. The selection of ice cream made on the premises is delicious too, and the lemon sorbet makes a light and refreshing palate cleanser at the end of your meal if you want to keep it simple.

The quality of the food at Joel Robuchon is exceptional, and this means the prices are high. There has been some criticism that the portions are ridiculously small given the high prices, and that you leave hungry, but that seems rather mean criticism given the enormous satisfaction from such quality ingredients and perfect preparation. It might not be the place to come for those who like to let their belt out a notch after a restaurant visit, but neither should it be. You should look to the quality over quantity and realise that it’s worth every penny.

The Drink
If you just want to enjoy a drink here, you’re welcome to do so in Le Salon, and it’s a good taster of the Robuchon experience. Cocktails include all the classics, including extremely potent vodka martinis, costing £10.50. A top tip is to order a delicious Bloody Mary (£8.50), which takes them ages to prepare but is well worth the wait, with a strong peppery taste and a sweet twist of lemon and lime.

Of course, most people here will be ordering food and therefore probably wine to accompany it. Be prepared to flash the cash on the French regions-based wine list, with most options costing £30 - £60, although there are lower (£18) and higher (£1,800) choices. At the bottom end of the scale is the Chateau Boucasses 1999 red, a heavy and flavoursome option with dark raspberry tones and great legs, practically sticking to the glass as you swirl it around.

The Last Word
You could criticise the small portions or high prices at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, but to do so would be a display of ignorance. Great food is about the best ingredients with simple preparation and complementary flavours, and it is for this reason that Robuchon was chosen as Chef of the Century by his peers. It’s an area in which this brand is unrivalled, so if you want a taste of something outstanding, it’s worth every penny!

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