With a head chef from Petrus and a place of pride in the D&D restaurant group, it’s no surprise that the food at Launceston Place is pretty spectacular. The big shock, however, is the remarkably reasonable price.

The Venue
An old favourite of the Kensington crowd (famous regulars included Princess Diana), the restaurant was bought by D&D restaurant group in 2007 and given a total refurbishment. The result is a sleek, modern venue, with walls so dark brown in colour that they’re almost black. There are several different interconnecting rooms, a lounge area in the centre of the venue and dining areas on either side packed with tables and cream banquettes scattered with tiny cushions. Bright paintings give everything a splash of colour. There’s a cosy chef’s table and private dining area downstairs, separated from the kitchen (in sight, but not sound) by a blue curtain, but you can see the chefs in action courtesy of a large flat-screen TV.

The Atmosphere
Despite the dark coloured walls, Launceston Place still feels quite open and airy. This is no doubt due in part to the staff, who are effortlessly friendly yet still manage to get the timing of the dishes just right. In fact, when they present you with your plate, you get the impression that they’re almost brimming with enthusiasm for what you’re about to eat. Other diners run the gamut from couples (young and old) to groups of friends out for an evening. Thanks to its location, you can expect a moneyed crowd, but even if you’re not one of the locals you won’t feel out of place.

The Food
Head chef Tristan Welch, formerly of Petrus, has created a menu that sticks to traditional British and modern European favourites, but there’s a creative, almost fanciful touch on every dish. The best part, however, is the price, which is almost outstandingly reasonable at £38 for three courses. Considering the quality of the food, and the fact that one course can cost two thirds of that at plenty of the capital’s restaurants, dinner here is practically a bargain. There’s also a six course tasting menu available for £49 and a three course lunch menu for £18.

Things start off nicely with homemade crisps (thin and light, but not oily) and a salty, earthy cheese dip. The amuse bouche of tomato foam, goat’s cheese and basil water is delicate and delicious, certainly a good indication of what else is to come. From the list of starters, the smoked cobnut soup with lobster is almost too pretty to eat, with the pink lobster meat nestled into some bright greens and the pale beige soup which is poured into the bowl from a little copper pot. Although it’s a bit strange getting used to the taste, both the cobnuts and the lobster are creamy and sweet, and complement each other well. Smoked salmon salad is to be taken quite literally – when the lid is lifted off the dish honey-scented smoke pours out, infusing the salmon, watercress and chive flowers with a woody flavour. The seashell-topped toothpicks alongside aren't exactly necessary, but they're very cute. For a more indulgent dish, duck foie gras is smooth and sinfully rich, and the rhubarb compote inside is a welcome surprise. With the smear of plum jam, doughy muffins and crisp pieces of streaky bacon, there’s about half a dozen different flavours going on at once, but each combination you can create is pretty much perfect.

From the mains, meaty Cornish mackerel is tempered by thin slices of cool, sweet cucumber and four bright green circles of cucumber veloute. The £12 supplement for the dish, courtesy of a generous, salty stripe of Oscietre caviar, is well worth it. New season lamb with smoked aubergine puree and majoram sauce is pink and tender, perfectly cooked to order, and the majoram gives the meat a lovely floral flavour. Before the desserts arrive, soft, creamy vanilla custard appears, served in a brown eggshell and topped with a sugary hazelnut crumble and a stick of toffee, leaving almost a miniscule amount of room for pudding. However, when the choices sound this good you’ll be looking forward to them quite a bit. Brown bread parfait has a perfect crumbly texture outside, and the Mayan chocolate sauce is extremely rich. The spongy, chilled bitter lemon slices are a lighter choice, and the thyme sorbet served alongside is a flavourful accompaniment. After all this comes even more that you’ll try your hardest to squeeze in: lush and creamy chocolates, and a crunchy and brittle chocolate slab with loads of nuts.

The Drink
Launceston Place's wine list is large but not unmanageable, divided into easily navigated, compact categories. There are five whites and reds by the glass from £5.50, and bottles from the teens and low twenties all the way up to £3,300 for a 1993 Latache Domaine de la Romancee Conti. Half bottles are also available as well, from £15. The house white is 2006 Bergerac Sec Cuvee Flavie, Chateau des Eyssards, a light, almost sparkly wine and a bargain at £16. Recommended aperitifs include a pale pink Bellini that’s packed with mellow peach flavours.

The Last Word
At Launceston Place, the cuisine is superb and the atmosphere welcoming. You get much, much more than what you pay for - top level dining at mid level prices.

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