Le Cercle is the West London outpost of Clerkenwell’s temple of gastronomy, Club Gascon, and it too offers some truly impressive Gallic dishes with a twist.

The Venue
Executive Chef Thierry Beyris is not only the man behind the stoves in this off-Sloane Square venue but was also responsible for its decor. The lower level space makes up for a lack of natural light with the use of hanging white drapes, an exposed caveau (wine cellar) at one end of the room and a useful mezzanine for pre-dinner cocktails at the other.

The Atmosphere
With the kitchen tucked well out of sight, there is an appealing tranquillity to the dining room that, in classic French style, helps focus attention squarely on the food and conversation above all else.

Design cues are largely rustic ones reflecting Club Gascon’s roots in Southwest France, although the overall feel is undoubtedly a contemporary one; cleverly, much the same could be said about the cuisine too.

The Food
Ultimately, the lengthy seasonal menu of painstakingly presented tapas-sized dishes is what Le Cercle’s discerning clientele come for, and with good reason. Neatly divided into Vegetal, Marin, Fermier, Terroir and Plaisirs sections, the menu goes out of its way to make the unavoidable French terminology as user-friendly as possible.

Where it really comes into its own however, is in highlighting the chef’s obvious talent at moving between the nutty creaminess of fricassées of wild mushrooms, carefully balanced servings of delicate sea bass and punchy red wine reduction, and on to the technical complexities of fully flavoured roast quail served en ballotine, apparently without batting an eyelid. The suggestion is that each person orders four mini courses from this culinary tour de France in order to leave room for an indulgent cupcake-sized dessert to finish things off - and with tarte tatins as good as this one, it would be a shame to miss out.

Overall, Beyris’ approach is very much one of quality not quantity, with each dish bursting with such rich, full-throttle intensity that one cannot help but guess at the cross-channel journey his ingredients have made before hitting the plate, let alone the kitchen hours spent reducing and marinating.

From the 20th – 25th May there’s a floral menu on offer, at £39 for four courses and £42 for five. Each item on the menu has a flowery touch, whether it’s a hint of violet in the dressing or an actual whole tulip laid on your plate, stem and all. Starter choices include a wild rocket sorbet, beautifully bright green with a sweet vinegar taste, and a fresh spring salad with even more green in the colourful leaves and vivid peas. For mains, there’s a sea bass tartare, a risotto-like mound that’s creamy and rich with a hint of vanilla. The piece de resistance of the menu, however, surely has to be the lamb with tulip, with a tender piece of milk-fed, Pyrenean lamb partnered with a tulip, the bulb of which is stuffed with a sweet and salty mixture of meat and barley grains. Desserts include gooey, creamy Brillat Savarin cheese with hibiscus and a fluffy milk pudding with succulent glazed peaches and crystallised rosemary.

The Drink
Not wishing to let the side down, the wine list is as comprehensive, egalitarian and varied as the food, with over two hundred bins kept in storage in the wall-mounted racks. In a welcome addition, suggestions by the glass are made for every dish on the menu, meaning the somewhat daunting choice of selecting a suitable chateau or region is quietly removed from the equation, if so desired.

Also as part of the floral menu are two specially made cocktails, a potently sweet blue violet martini (in a lovely shade of purple) and a Bubbly Rose Blossom, champagne mixed with muddled fruit and sprinkled with rose petals – light and refreshing.

The Last Word
Despite its underground location, Le Cercle manages to bring some dazzling French sunshine to this upscale corner of SW1.

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