Followers of contemporary culture would be forgiven for assuming that anything emanating from SW1 was ostentatious, attention seeking and ultimately lacking in substance. Le Cercle proves otherwise.

The Venue
Situated a stone’s throw from Sloane Square in one of the stunning red brick mansion houses that typify the area, this basement restaurant is a picture of contemporary style. A sleek and simple aesthetic greets those entering and tantalising glimpses into private spaces add intrigue to the descent onto the restaurant floor. A chic bar lines one side with stools for those taking aperitifs, and oversized booths with heavy wooden tables complete the periphery. The centre of the floor contains well spaced, classic tables with sculptural Eames-esque chairs raising the style factor way above your standard eatery, whilst more discreet and private tables are tucked behind a discreet screen wall. Everything's tied together with intelligent lighting to provide intimacy, privacy and elegance.

The Atmosphere
Such a design-led environment could easily have led to diners feeling cowed by their surroundings, but happily not so at Le Cercle. This is down in no small part to the superb service provided by the professional and charming staff. Waiters and sommeliers are friendly, knowledgeable, witty and professional, and set the tone for a perfectly relaxed environment. The chatter of happy eaters combine with tasteful background music for an atmosphere a happy world away from the bray or the pout.

The Food
A recent transition from a tapas-style menu of small dishes to larger, more traditional a la carte might have led to problems, or alienated those still seeking the variety that comes with sharing lighter bites. Le Cercle have cleverly dodged this trap by maintaining an emphasis on the petits plats (and clearly having a kitchen that can cope with the demands of doubling the size of the menu without losing any of the quality). The staff will advise on the scale of dishes and combinations but gluttony is definitely recommended, and every dish is true to its Gallic inspiration before it gets just the right amount of contemporary twist.

The bounty at the smaller end of the menu is impressive but the foie gras choco bar is not to be missed – exquisite foie gras is combined with fried brioche and spun sugar, then dusted with spiced cinnamon to provide a sumptuous marriage of rich and sweet. Beef tartare with smoked ketchup and mustard ice cream reads a bit like something from the molecular gastronomy bandwagon but the reality is sublime – the separation of the constituent parts is a truly delicious conceit. Veal cannelloni with parmesan and lemon is another enhancement of a classic, this time the rich tomato and parmesan cut with a citrus note that adds complexity. Crispy tuna is nothing of the sort, and all the better for it - tuna sashimi is served with lightly battered, pan fried pieces of sausage that combine with the rich béarnaise to provide meaty foil to the perfectly fresh fish.

Mains come in between the £10 and £30 mark. Amber quinoa ‘risotto’ with pumpkin pulp and dandelion provides a good option for those seeking something lighter – it's a delicate and subtle dish with tantalising hints of the flower hidden in the rich pumpkin froth. Those wanting more meat (the menu is unapologetically carnivorous) should probably plump for the pork variation from nose to tail – a love letter to the pig, warts (deep fried whiskers) and all. Proof positive that you can make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear - it tastes divine.

Desserts offer traditional options, but with plenty of additional evidence of technical competence in the kitchen. A chocolate fondant is firmly in the traditional camp and perfectly, simply executed. The more ambitious salted caramel and hazelnut wrapped in a crystal clear sugar tube; or the sphere of meringue encasing champagne sorbet speaks of the kitchen’s skill, and taste every bit as impressive as they look.

The Drink
Biodynamic wines feature strongly in both colours, as do blends, which might be a surprise for some to see around these parts. This is not a list that throws caution entirely to the wind however and traditionalists will no doubt be buoyed by the presence of plenty of Bordeauxs and a reassuring amount of sauvignon. A biodynamic pinot noir/gamay mix shows what fortune befalls the brave – the combination of the floral, fruity notes of the gamay with the long, tannin rich pinot noir is excellent. The bottles at the higher end of the list are certainly more enticing than the more staple offerings, but you get what you pay for and it’s worth digging deep.

The Last Word
It appears, after all, that there's still some unassuming class in Chelsea. This is a restaurant for those who appreciate the finer things in life but don’t necessarily feel the need to shout about it.

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