Amongst the cluster of eateries set back from the central Clapham lot nestles Le Chardon. The name means The Thistle in French but it’s more of a rose – a true backstreet treat.

The Venue
Twinkling lights surround the dark grey and glass-fronted facade, inviting you into a restaurant space which stretches back to the open kitchen. Inside the tables are scattered, not too close, not too formatted. Pictures on the walls are for sale upward of £250, with carefully classic black and white photos and the odd shot of close-up goldfish bringing a splash of colour. An over the top silver framed mirror reflects the intertwined wires snaking across the ceiling and lighting the room.

The Atmosphere
The music is a bit cheesy but luckily it’s not overly loud and easy enough to tune out. The service is effortless and barely noticeable. Staff pre-empt requests, supply before demand and run a flawless ship from start to finish.

The Food
Cocktail stick olives arrive as you sit down, with a couple of miniatures – bread like pastry bases, topped with finely chopped olive and onion. Nice bites to keep you going while you make a decision on the main event. There are a good selection of exciting starters from escargots through to a spectrum of seafood – including whole dressed crab, gravadlax and oysters – to duck foie gras, and a goat’s cheese foccacia vegetarian option. Six meaty grilled prawns (£6.95) are seasoned to perfection in a garlicky herb sauce, served head and tail on but pre-shelled to avoid any real messiness. The French attention to detail is evident in the taste and follows with the finger bowl and slice of lemon presented as the plates are cleared.

Main courses are another array of classics with subtle style. There are five choices of fish for under £14 and meats are even more reasonably priced for the quality. Rump of Lamb (£12.75) with a herb crust is juicy and crisp around the edges and soft and flavourful in the centre, but the accompanying timbale of sultana couscous seems bland in comparison. The ribeye steak (£13.95) comes in second place, despite being the more traditional dish - it would benefit from being cooked on the more succulent side of medium. The green peppercorn sauce is glossy and smooth with just enough fire. A side of pommes frites (£2.50) are hot and ketchup and mayonnaise are brought on request, without a hint that anybody will think less of you for asking. The mixed salad (£2.50) is slightly superfluous - a nice plate of dressed leaves, tomato and cucumber but nothing special.

Desserts (£4.95) have all tempting angles covered from a light chocolate mousse, sturdier toffee pudding aux dates, crepes, ice cream, fromage and more. The flambeed tart tatin strikes a perfect balance. It’s served in an earthenware dish whilst a pan of flaming Calvados is brought before you. The steaming liqueur is just enough, avoiding the danger of sickening saturation and instead keeping the dish light. The apple quarters are just softened and sit on a meltingly thin buttery pastry, which is at its caramelised best around the edges. Creme fraiche adds a tangy creaminess.

The Drink
It’s good to see a halves option on the wine list, allowing you to choose the perfect bottle to suit each course or to try something new without committing to a full bottle. The half Muscadet (£11.90) fits with the smooth theme running throughout. Understated and delicate to drink, chilled in a miniature cooler on the table it’s also chic accessory – an altogether worthwhile glass. Tap water is served in iced bottles sans snobbery, a tasteful touch.

The Last Word
Le Chardon is filled with flavour-enhancing attention to every detail, right down to the cocoa dusted truffles which arrive with the chip and pin machine, making the bill that little bit sweeter.

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