Attracting the holiday hordes and the local workers looking for some fine fare, Le Deuxieme just about delivers what it promises.

The Venue
Located on Long Acre, in the heart of Covent Garden, Le Deuxieme has an ideal location in which to grab the plethora of passing by trade, with tourists, theatre fans and workers constantly streaming past. It’s an attractive enough restaurant itself, with a sleek font spelling out the name which hints at modern sophistication, yet inside it’s a little bland and at points, tatty. With some really positive elements such as pristine white tablecloths, vividly clean cutlery and a soft purple and cream colour scheme, it’s a shame that the only character the venue boasts is from the odd bit of chipped paint, or the inexcusable broken skirting panel. A lack of decoration or adornment makes it feel stuck between somewhere that’s modern and minimalist and somewhere classically French, resulting in somewhere that’s just a little dull, even if it is perfectly inoffensive.

The Atmosphere
The impressive sounding menu that’s posted by the entrance regularly receives studied looks, and consequently Le Deuxieme plays host to those in the area for work, the theatre or a bit of sightseeing. As a result you can expect to be seated close to anybody from small groups discussing the West End to couples who have stumbled romantically along Long Acre along with the obligatory suits talking business. The immaculately presented staff members make things run very smoothly indeed and add to what’s an informal, pleasant restaurant that boasts a relaxed atmosphere well suited to the area.

The Food
Le Deuxieme’s fare flitters between good quality options that clearly use excellent produce, to the odd uninspiring and limp dish that doesn’t represent particularly good value for money. Starters are about £7 - £10, mains about £15 - £16. An impressive starter of Bayonne ham on a toasted brioche is tasty, with the delicious, fresh ham boasting a good layer of fat and sitting in between well-prepared, al dente artichokes and vibrant sun-dried tomatoes. Unfortunately, not all starters come to the table as immaculately constructed, with a rocket and parmesan salad suffering from watery rocket and a dearth of parmesan, making the delicious balsamic accompaniment a little futile.

Whilst the sea bass is excellent, the mains fall into the same trap as the starters, with a clam tagliatelle in a cream sauce being just plain boring, with the only thing threatening to liven it up being some slighty overcooked shellfish. The grilled sea bass improves things considerably though. It comes with a golden skin that’s been crisped under the heat of the grill. The fish is served in generous portions on top of a bed of buttery sliced cabbage. A little more seasoning wouldn’t go amiss on the greens, but the accompanying butter-based sauce gives a rich and comforting edge and tastes good mopped up with new potatoes and the rest of the dish.

Desserts are really good too, with a fruit plate being a particular highlight. Benefiting from some stunningly fresh fruit including lychee, pineapple, blueberries, strawberry and passion fruit, the wonderful lemon and blackcurrant sorbet almost pales into insignificance. Sticky toffee pudding is great too and contains a mass of dates to enhance the caramel flavour. A solitary scoop of vanilla ice cream is just enough, although it is served almost rock hard, which means as the spoon hits it for the first time, it comes off worst. Once it melts a little, the mix of hot, steamy pud with the cold bite of the ice cream is one that anyone with a sweet tooth will enjoy. A very respectable version of a classic.

The Drink
There’s an excellent, extensive and well thought-out wine list that will keep everyone happy, from novices to experts. The house white, a crisp and fresh sauvignon blanc is really good, but put into the shade by the house red, a merlot that’s soft, fruity, drinkable and superb value at £11 for the bottle. The remainder of the bins are well categorised, making choosing a doddle, with the regional French options being particularly impressive. There are some great options that are a little more expensive, with a herbaceous, oaky 1997 Chianti at £30 being the pick of a good Italian bunch. But if you really want to impress then spend a surprisingly reasonable £160 on a bottle of Cristal.

The Last Word
An acceptable restaurant that fares well in comparison to many other Covent Garden restaurants, Le Deuxieme shouldn’t disappoint, although it’s unlikely that you’ll be shouting from the rooftops about it.

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