To any London gastronome’s mind, Le Gavroche is pretty much the place. A timeless establishment that everyone of a certain age (or depth of pocket) knows, whether they’ve been there or not. Just a short wander away from Hyde Park and the glamorous depths of surrounding Mayfair, it’s a slice of Paris’ high life in a relatively unassuming Georgian street. Unsurprising, then, that the head chef is none other than Michel Roux Jr, the youngest member of the culinary dynasty that owns The Waterside Inn (and others besides). All the biggest names in cookery began their careers here, and you can certainly see why.

The Venue
Some accuse Le Gavroche of being stuffy in terms of its appearance. It is true, perhaps, that the decor seems as if it has rarely been updated since the Edwardian times, but it nevertheless pulls it off with class. The dining room is all dark burgundy and green vie with lighter shades of blue against the bright white linen tablecloths, upon which rest intriguing works of art; a peacock made of little but burnished silver cutlery perhaps. The lighting may be dim, but you can see everything in the room, especially the gorgeously-presented food.

The Atmosphere
Immediately upon arrival, you are welcomed as a guest of prestige, assuming you’re dressed with any degree of formality at least. The attentiveness is of the same level throughout your visit: professional, but never overbearing (unless you dislike having chairs slid in under you as you sit, or napkins folded over your lap). The lack of music allows you to talk with your own party clearly, and though the room may be packed to full capacity, the noise from other tables is never overly loud. It’s also nice that the head chef himself often comes out into the restaurant and mingles with guests, with a genuine air of interest and amiability too. The clientele vary between respectable foodies and the very well-heeled hailing from Mayfair to Singapore by way of Manhattan. Not a place for Reebok Classics, then.

The Food
The menu is of moderate size, mostly focusing on quality rather than vast choice, and both a la carte and set menus are available to suit your needs. It is recommended that you go for the house specialities, favourites that have lasted for decades here. For starters, the Souffle Suissesse (cheese soufflé, baked with double cream) is especially good, so light that it is practically cheese-flavoured air, but still packed full of flavour. For the more adventurous, the langoustine with snails in a Hollandaise sauce is wonderfully light, creamy, and subtly spiced, with tender morsels of earthy, meaty goodness.

Mains consist of offerings like Le Caneton Gavroche to share (a whole, extremely tender duck poached in a light consomme, served with three very different, classic sauces), or a delicate roasted milk-fed lamb, served with very fresh flageolets and a thyme-scented jus. Desserts focus on mostly fruit-based puddings, with some fantastic souffles, mousses and tarts to pick from, best of all the Omelette Rothschild; a cointreau and apricot souffle. Every dish lives up to expectations, and is cooked to a typically high standard. Duds seem exceedingly rare, and are humbly adjusted or remade to order with little fuss.

The Drink
Le Gavroche is renowned throughout the European wine world for its wine list. Opening the veritable tome, it’s difficult not to feel a sense of awe; massive back-catalogues of almost every vintage of every major wine producer of the old world, as well as the rising classics from America, Australia and New Zealand. Well worth trying is the Henri Pelle Blanc from Menetou-Salon, one of the best Loire whites you’re likely to find for an eminently reasonable price. Their Slovenian icewine is also a very rare treat indeed, perfectly balanced acidity and sweetness, with a streak of coconut and mango fruit, perfect with the more fruity desserts. The sommeliers seriously know their stuff, and are very willing to point out the more reasonably priced but delightfully drinkable bottles. Cocktails are also made to exacting standards in the upstairs bar, but don’t expect any particularly radical shifts from the old school classics.

The Last Word
Admittedly, the pricing of Le Gavroche does make it more suitable for very special occasions (unless you are attending for the set menu lunch, where you can get one of the best value Michelin-starred meals in England at £48 for three courses, half a bottle of wine and water), but assuming you are looking for a very special place to flawlessly celebrate something with good company, it’s hard to recommend a better place. Book in advance, turn up well-dressed (no need for morning suits, but tie and jacket are required), and you’re likely to enjoy it more than anywhere else this year.

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