Many restaurants have claimed to be recession-friendly but few have truly delivered on this promise. Step forward, Le Mercury, where incredible value for money has been their thing for years.

The Venue
Le Mercury is a rather cutesy restaurant, despite being spread across three floors. And they know how to pull in the punters with a little blackboard outside proudly displaying their low – low – prices. However, it’s not all about the value here. The black frontage with its simple, small, white signage is inviting thanks to the large windows offering views of the white tablecloth bedecked tables, candlelight and yellow walls within. Usually yellow is a bit of a no-no, but in this case it’s a wonderful break from all the neutral cream and white colour schemes of restaurants across the capital, and it does exude a cosy warmth. They have even thought of little details like flowers and plants – impressive given this is a cheap eatery.

The Atmosphere
There are a lot of great cheap restaurants in London if you are ‘in-the-know’ or sniff them out yourself. The difference with Le Mercury is you get a great atmosphere as well. If you’re looking for a romantic first date spot without having to shell out the cash then this is ideal. Sure, it can get busy to the point where the three floors are about to burst but the staff are so friendly and welcoming and the service so efficient you’ll barely notice it. And you won’t be elbow-to-elbow with your neighbour like you would at places like Tayyabs. Instead, you’re given the space to enjoy your (very) cheap grub.

The Food
Cheap food is all well and good but if it’s not nice to eat then it won’t represent value for money. Good thing, then, that Le Mercury offers good quality Anglo-French food. Now, the prices. All starters are £3.95. All mains are £7.95. All desserts are £2.95. Yes, those aren’t typos.

For starters, the calamari is surprisingly good. Deep fried but without being overly greasy, the squid retains its delicate flavour and is – thankfully – free of chewiness (always a worry when ordering cheap calamari), and it comes with a chunky, tart home made tartar sauce that gets the mouth watering. Alternatively, the moules marinière are at least as good as those you’ll find at restaurants like Belgo for three times the price. The fat shellfish are meaty and their slightly salty flavour is lifted by the cream, garlic, shallots and white wine sauce, which is well seasoned and light.

For mains, a rib-eyed steak is plump, juicy and tender, although you may have to send it back the first time to ensure it’s cooked exactly to order, especially if you prefer it on the rarer side. Luckily, they are more than happy to re-cook it if the kitchen has made a mistake. And the wait is worth it. However, it pales in comparison to the sea bass fillet. Meaty, perfectly seasoned and with a crisp skin, it’s an excellent piece of fish and comes with soft crushed new potatoes and a subtly minted pesto sauce. Delightful. To finish, the crème brulee gets the thumbs up for its perfectly crisp top that cracks at the tap of a spoon to reveal a creamy, rich custard beneath.

The Drink
Okay, so the food may be cheap but the wine significantly ramps the price up, right? Wrong. Bottles start at under £12, increasing to just under £40. And the selection is decent with a nice choice of French bottles bolstered by some New World wines covering a range of grape varieties and regions.

The Last Word
Three courses for just over a tenner. Wine for under twenty quid. And good quality too? No wonder this place is always busy.

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