Nestled in amongst the theatres and cinemas of Soho is this classic French establishment that accurately attempts to recreate the heights of Parisian dining.

The Venue
Situated just a stone’s throw from The Comedy Theatre and the cinemas of Leicester Square, Le Troisieme is an ideal spot for pre-theatre dinner and drinks. It is handily located close to Piccadilly Circus but, surrounded by neon-lit steak houses, its tiny street façade is easy enough to miss. Inside the confines of this little eatery, an attempt has been made to recreate the charm of Parisian bistros. The walls have been given a chipped and worn effect, and the mirror running along one side of the restaurant is similarly tarnished. This obvious attempt to recreate a worn-and-torn appearance somewhat contradicts the effortless elegance that Parisian people tend to pride themselves upon. Nevertheless, the bar is charmingly French, with tall stools inviting you to enjoy a drink with staff. Le Troisieme also encourages romance, with tables laid out for dining couples. Larger tables are kept out of sight in the downstairs area of the restaurant.

The Atmosphere
From the moment you arrive at Le Troisieme you are greeted by the charming French staff, whose jokes and conversation continue throughout the evening. Their friendly attitude creates much more of an ambience of Paris than the overdone décor manages to achieve. Couples stroll in for a quiet meal, while theatre darlings enjoy a continental drink or two at the bar. Typical French music and female chanteuses can be heard in the background, adding to the Gallic buzz already created by staff.

The Food
There are pre-theatre or a la carte menu options for diners to choose from, both holding classic French dishes at their heart. The French onion soup (£4.95) is a fail-safe option, its herby aroma and intensity in flavour living up to expectations. It's topped with a traditional layer of bread croutons and grilled cheese, and presented in a bowl mounted on a simple wooden platter, making it all the more appealing. The asiette de charcuterie (£6.95) is served on a similar rustic board, and comprises five different types of tasty continental meats. It’s a simple offering, but is satisfying nonetheless.

The filet de beouf with béarnaise sauce and gratin dauphinois (£18.95) is a stand-out dish. The steak is beautifully tender, cooked to perfection and bursting with herby flavour. Served with a sharp béarnaise sauce and creamy dauphinois potatoes, it is a reminder of France’s culinary superiority. Swordfish, served with capers, spring onion, olive oil sauce and new potatoes (£14.95) is another inviting option. Its simplicity is yet again what makes it so special; the olive oil sauce only further emphasises the delicate taste of the swordfish.

The dessert options are just as typically French. The crème brulee (£4.95) is not to be missed, a crispy sugar topping giving way to the gooey vanilla custard. And the crepe suzette (£4.95) is served with a dollop of vanilla ice cream which perfectly offsets the delicious sharpness of the syrup and buttery taste of the thin pancakes. The food is the star of the show at Le Troisieme, making it perfectly clear why France has traditionally held such power in the culinary world.

The Drink
All wines on the menu and displayed at the bar are French, of course. The house wines are served in 500cl carafes, allowing them to breath and adding to their depth in flavour. The carafe of shiraz monastier 2009 Allain Grignon (£12.80) is served at the perfect temperature, making it full-bodied and fruity. Wine can also be bought by the bottle, with prices ranging all the way up to £59. The bar also stocks some impressive after-dinner liquors, and restaurant staff encourage you to wash down your dinner with a calvados brandy.

The Last Word
Le Troisieme makes a refreshing change from the surrounding run-of-the-mill steak houses and chain restaurants of Soho and Leicester Square. Although you may not feel exactly like you stepped into a Parisian joint, the delicious French food and wine will do something to transport you to the continent.

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