Malcolm John’s splendid French bistro in Chiswick is a bit of a trek for most, but for those lucky enough to live nearby, this is neighbourhood dining at its best.

The Venue
Straddling Acton and Chiswick, Le Vacherin thankfully has much more in common with the leafy latter. Located next to an equally agreeable boozer and offering views out over the green of the Common, it’s every bit the French bistro, with dark red leathers, immaculate white linen and mahogany woods serving up a delightful bit of French sophistication that never threatens to feel stuffy. Posters of Parisian shows from yesteryear adorn the walls, empty magnums of Champagne hint at extravagance and little models of crooning frogs add a bit of humour to what's a charmingly endearing little venue.

The Atmosphere
It really does feel like a neighbourhood restaurant, and the clientele seems to back this up. Larger tables are filled with families from nippers to nans, with plenty of others taken up by couples taking advantage of the romantic ambience. Service is exquisite and comes aptly accented by the intonations of the mother tongue, with further snippets of authenticity coming from the soft sounds of Edith Piaf slowly breezing across the dining room when the appreciative chatter finds a lull.

The Food
Excellent French bistro fare served at equally excellent prices is what has made Le Vacherin such a popular venue. Evenings see an extensive three course menu served at £35, but Sunday lunches are every bit as impressive, with three courses costing just £25. There’s clearly a lot of care and skill in the kitchen, with a procession of classic French dishes coming out spot on.

Starters begin perfectly, with a rich, well-balanced crème of pumpkin veloute served with deep fried sage leaves, roasted pine nuts and shaved parmesan particularly good. It’s also pleasing to see that Le Vacherin can do snails as well as the French, with escargot bourguignon boasting big, plump snails baked with chopped shallots, a little chopped parsley, butter and plenty of garlic.

The mains continue the theme, with the veal sweetbreads well worth trying. You often need to go to a French restaurant (or somewhere similarly confident) to get things like these, where the thymus gland is cooked to velvet perfection and served with capers, parsley and salsify gratin. The roasts though, are seriously good. Often got so very wrong by so many other places, it’s something of shame that a French restaurant could get it so right - and even more so when it’s roast beef. The meat is cooked to a beautiful pink (complete with ever so slightly charred and crisp edges), the duck fat potatoes are outrageously good, the gravy rich and the roasted vegetables perfect. The only element that's not faultless are the Yorkshires, which haven’t quite risen. C’est la vie.

Desserts are just as good as the rest, with the crème brulee and the rich sorbet with mixed berries both worth saving room for, but the selection of French farmhouse cheeses steal the show, with beautiful examples of brie, goat’s cheese, Roquefort and mimolette served with biscuits, fig and oatcakes.

The Drinks
A long, long wine list might be confusing were it not for the expert advice of the restaurant manager, who glides over with plenty of ideas for what will suit your meal. A very good number are available by the glass (including some Champagnes), on a (predominantly French) list that goes from the affordable to the celebratory via some corking options. Choice picks include the Domaine Colette Gros 2008 Chablis (£33); the Domaine Thibert 2008 Pouilly-Fuisse Non-Filtre (£53); and a Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2007 from Domaine Heresztyn (£41). An excellent spirit selection rounds things off, and you’re never made to feel like you’re being rushed, so grab an Armagnac and relax.

The Last Word
Excellent cooking, agreeable prices and a spot-on atmosphere all combine to make Le Vacherin one of those places that just seem to get everything right. Recommended.

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