Yet another fabulous bistro is lavishing fine food on the increasingly smug residents of Chiswick.

The Venue
Nestled up against the 94 bus terminus, Le Vacherin has not been blessed with the most elegant of locations, but this hasn’t stopped it being heaped with praise by the likes of Harpers & Queen and Tatler. Modelled on a classic French dining room, the decor is simple with dark wood and creamy walls interrupted only by an elongated slash of mirror and the odd bistro-style print.

The Atmosphere
If you listen carefully, through the clashing of cutlery and the murmur of conversation, you might catch the odd whisper of a French love song, but you’d have to work quite hard. Le Vacherin would be much improved by turning the music up and the lights down, but this is a small complaint against what is, essentially a very well-thought out neighbourhood restaurant.

The Food
Classic bistro food such as steak tartare, terrine de foie gras and rabbit stew are expertly cooked using fresh, seasonal produce. The menu is well-balanced with a good selection of both meat and fish dishes and the prices, although double what they would be across the Channel, are not overly frightening. Funnily enough, Vacherin cheese which is in season from November to March features heavily on the menu, appearing warmed, with a truffle and almond crust as a starter, melted into a rich potato gratin, secreted into a surprisingly delicious ice cream served with a fig tart and finally, oozing all over the cheeseboard.

The Drink
The wine list at Le Vacherin is no doubt part of the reason that local diners look so smug, as being just a short stroll from home, they are free to lay into unlimited quantities of the excellent and very reasonably priced French wines, whilst designated drivers on tourist visas from Richmond and Kensington look on green-eyed. Commendably, the list which includes a house wine at just a smidgen over £13.00, features several fairly decent bottles for under £20, thereby ensuring that a good meal needn’t be spoilt by bad wine for those on a budget.

The Last Word
With yet another fine restaurant to add to the ever burgeoning list, London gastronomes should start seriously considering a move to Chiswick.

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