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The Londoner's Guide to London
13 October 2008
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Lemon Monkey

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188 Stoke Newington High Street,
Stoke Newington,
London,
N16 7JD

(020) 7241 4454 

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byStephen Farmer10/04/2008
An extremely well-stocked delicatessen in Stokey, Lemon Monkey serves up sumptuous food, even if it is a little light on seating.

The Venue
Lemon Monkey stands out on Stoke Newington High Street, acting as a beacon of good taste in an area chock full of less glamorous eateries, shops and pubs. An unfeasibly high ceiling accommodates a wall of fine olive oils, imported pastas, authentic sauces and excellent organic fare, leading along to a very cosy room separate dining room. A large open space seems something of a waste but it does offer plenty of room for visitors to queue at the impressively rustic open plan preparation area and till.

The Atmosphere
There’s not a huge amount of seating at the front of Lemon Monkey, probably testament to the fact that many visitors just pop in to pick up goods to take away and use in their own kitchen. There are a couple of seats by the window though, making for a good spot to peruse Stokey life as it ambles slowly past. Your best bet, however, is to head to the very comfortable area at the back, where a large Chesterfield sofa, cosy seating and a well stocked bookshelf act as the perfect place to while away an afternoon or two. The clientele aren’t really a mixed bunch – they’re the more affluent denizens of this almost dichotomous area, so expect to see Maclaren buggies, aspiring actors and flip flopping Guardian readers.

The Food
With such a wealth of excellent organic food on offer it’s obvious there’s some great knowledge in the kitchen, with obviously great contacts too. The packaged stuff is imported from all over Europe, and sourced locally, but you’re best off settling down for the impressively prepared, and superbly priced dining options. A good place to start would be a meat and cheese platter which includes excellent chorizo, prosciutto, duck, sun-blushed tomatoes, Stilton, Emmenthal and more, all served with a nice mix of breads. The doorstop sandwiches are filled with similarly impressive ingredients, and again boast prices that make you wonder why the venue isn’t blessed with a more mixed clientele. Desserts are sublime, though not quite as cheap, but when they’re as beautiful and tasty as Lemon Monkey’s offerings you really can’t complain. A pistachio pie is deliciously soft and well balanced, even if it is a little dry, whilst its blueberry counterpart blows it away with sweet, tangy blueberry compote sitting on a deliciously light and airy base.

The Drink
Lemon Monkey has some great wines, with some superb prices. Seeing as many visitors will want to buy a bottle and take it away there’s no huge hike in price for corkage, making the good selection even more appealing. There’s a great imported Prosecco that’s far superior to what you might pick up in most establishments, whilst a very reasonable Mas Demelle sauvignon blanc is as crisp and as light as you could possibly ask for. One of the best feathers in the Lemon Monkey cap is that they serve the highly regarded Monmouth coffee, a strong, aromatic and ethical bean that’s a must for those in the know.

The Last Word
A great little delicatessen, Lemon Monkey is somewhere that’s keeping the foodies of Stoke Newington very happy indeed. Just make sure you get in there early if you want to have a seat.
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