Simple, classic Italian food in a sexy, stylish Shoreditch restaurant.

The Venue
Lena’s position on Great Eastern Street is right in the heart of Shoreditch, ideal for attracting the trendy locals, the media crowd and the occasional City boy who feels like slumming it. It’s a two-level venue, with a dimly lit jazz bar in the basement, down a flight of stairs with black and white photographs framed by the white tiled wall. The ground floor restaurant is a refreshing mix of brown, stark white and lime green, with warm brown floors that match the tabletops, edged with a white floral pattern. White plastic chairs mix with bright, boxy green sofas, whilst towards the entrance, white sofas and chairs are warmed up with a red brick wall. It’s quite a pretty venue, trendy enough to please the younger crowd, inoffensive enough not to keep older diners at bay.

The Atmosphere
Despite the attractive furnishings, there’s a bit of a cold atmosphere to Lena, almost as if you’d be afraid to talk too loudly. Staff are professional and attentive, but a bit more friendly banter wouldn’t go amiss. Diners here seem to be mainly couples, dressed in a mix of suits and ties, jeans and t-shirts and ruffled skirts and patterned tights.

The Food
The food at Lena is southern Italian, and as most Italian food in London seems to have a northern influence, it’s a welcome change from the normal menu you’d usually find. Prices vary widely, and with a decent selection of pasta dishes you can leave without feeling too light of stomach or wallet. From the antipasti selection, polpo al vapore (£8) is a salad of warm steamed octopus and sauteed potatoes. A pretty purple colour, the slices of octopus taste very fresh and have a good texture, not too soft but not too firm either. The small chunks of potatoes are cooked well, and the lemon and olive oil dressing brings out the delicate flavours of the octopus. Sea bass carpaccio (£10) includes firm pieces of melt-in-the-mouth sea bass mixed with a crunchy, aromatic fennel and peeled segments of tangerine that provide a hint of fresh citrus.

From the pasta menu, spaghetti alla carbonara (£7.50 as a starter, £9.50 for a main) is made with pan fried guanciale (a cured meat made from pig’s cheeks), egg yolk and Pecorino cheese. Although it’s not an enormous portion, it’s very filling, with a thick, pale yellow, eggy sauce that makes it a heavier dish. The petto di pollo ripieno (£14) is another filling dish, with a generous portion of moist chicken breast filled with creamy goat’s cheese and spinach. The accompanying celeriac and truffle oil give it a deep, earthy flavour. Desserts include the classic tiramisu (£6), dusted with cocoa, with sweet cream and a bitter but delicate note of coffee, and a carmelised apple tart, which takes the form of two sticks of crisp pastry filled with soft, sweet apples.

The Drink
The wine list is almost entirely Italian, with a few surprise bottles from other countries. Prices start from a reasonable £15.50 a bottle, but it would be nice to see a few more choices by the glass, as there are only three reds, three whites and one rose. A glass of 2007 Bianco delle Venezie (£4.50) is heady and fruity, a good, drinkable accompaniment to the rich flavours of the meal.

The Last Word
Although the warm atmosphere you’d expect at Italian restaurants takes a backseat in favour of style, Lena is sure to please the denizens of Shoreditch with its good, hearty food.

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