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The Londoner's Guide to London
06 July 2008
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Leon

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Venue Image
36 Great Marlborough Street,
Soho,
London,
W1F 7JE

0871 971 7502 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byEdward Mellett09/11/2007
An innovative French takeaway cafe - the arty, totally non-corporate version of typical high street sandwich shops.

The Venue
Leon is easy to find. It’s bright red and white stripes clearly mark its territory just off Great Marlborough Street and Carnaby Street. From outside the place looks colorful (kind of like a circus) but inside it’s far more sophisticated, with motif-adorned brown paper bags and nice smelling food. At first glance the place looks like a tiny takeaway with only four wedged in spaces for eat-and-go dining, but a look a little deeper reveals a whole area of busy eaters in a dimly lit, atmospheric back room. Bookshelves, framed photography, large mirrors and warmly decorated red walls evoke a charm that’s continued by the staff.

The Atmosphere
It’s a surprisingly busy place, Leon, probably because the food is pretty cheap for what you’re getting, the service is quick and everything is generally pretty easy going. It’s actually so busy on weeknights that you’ll probably be waiting 10-15 minutes for a table between the 7.30pm to 8.30pm rush.

If worse comes to worst the staff are more than likely to make you feel welcome, and might even bring you a wee aperitif while you wait, especially if you can offer a polite French word or two in the right place. Leon is fun, relaxed and pleasantly charming. It’s a great place for a quick no fuss, no frills meal in this part of London.

Expect a few arty types, after work diners from local Carnaby Street shops and offices and pre- or post-theatre diners. Apparently it gets busy for lunch too, so leave the office 5 minutes early, or expect to eat your lunch back at your desk!

The Food
The menu is somewhat limited. Leon is probably best at lunch when you don’t want a lot of choice. At dinner it’s a little hard for two people to pick three entirely different courses because starters and mains are mostly the same (Moroccan meatballs, gobi and sweet potato falafel) just variations in size. Mains come with more additions (rice, salad, coleslaw) and are much larger portions but the menu makes it obvious this place is primarily catering for take-away eaters. What is on offer is generally very tasty, wholesome and seems to be organic. The chicken wings are somewhat dry but nicely spicy, the curry is a bit runny and could do with some kind of bread, but mix the chicken wings and curry together, and it’s not that bad at all!

The Drink
The wine list is very limited which is surprising considering this place is French, but then this really isn’t a proper French restaurant. This is probably why only house wine is available, served by the carafe, and comes not in wine glasses but tumblers.

Later on, coffee is served in paper cups too, but for no apparent reason. After all, you would have thought a cafe with enough money to rent a central London location could afford wine glasses and coffee cups! Cocktails however, of which there are five varieties, are served in glasses. The wine is not amazing, but it is cheap, passable and very pleasantly served. The selection of smoothies seems much more appealing, although at a higher price than the wine, you would hope so.

The Last Word
Leon is a treat - a valuable addition to Carnaby Street’s lunchtime venues that’s more than capable of providing warming, tasty, healthy food quickly and cost-effectively for rushing workers. At night, it’s still good, but rather limited in what it can offer. It’s very relaxed living room French flair does appeal though, and you certainly won’t regret a trip here, and neither will your wallet.
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