Transporting its mythical clan of Chinese outlaws to oversee events in Bayswater, Leong’s Legend’s third restaurant is already fending off competition from the flurry of fast food outlets on the Queensway strip.

The Venue
With a Burger King, McDonalds and a Pizza Hut in the vicinity, you might be mistaken for thinking that those stumbling out of the pubs would be inclined to take the easy option and guzzle the grease but the bustling nature of Leong’s Legend proves otherwise. The interior upholds some of the Taiwanese chain’s fabled origins by way of daggers and tiger skins on the walls and their iconic mythical beasts and armed warriors are even paraded on the doors of the toilets, albeit without any text so make sure look twice before barging your way in to one of the cubicles. Upstairs, tables are spacious and stationed at a reasonable distance from one another with low hanging bamboo lights and vertical wooden beams enclosing diners in intimate cocoons.

The Atmosphere
Staff set the tone for an evening without fuss and frolics, studiously beavering away at their work stations, frantically cleaning cutlery and churning out plates of food faster than you can say dim sum. All are dressed in traditional Taiwanese attire – waiters in shirts and waitresses in petticoats – and all are incredibly affable and enthusiastic when it comes to discussing the food, revelling in the mutual appreciation of a particular dish and exuding genuine joy when one of their recommendations hits the spot. Meanwhile, it’s always refreshing to see a sizeable portion of diners who hail from the restaurant’s homeland and is often an indication of the quality of the food.

The Food
Don’t be perturbed by the tawdry images that accompany the dual language descriptions on the inner sleeves of the menu. The food at Leong’s is excellent. A small selection of dim sum is available with written recommendations, new dishes and spicy options marked up with star ratings and colourful symbols. But be warned, if you want your dim sum as a starter then make it known to the waiting staff or you’re likely to be swamped by a barrage of dishes all at once. Legend’s Siu Loung Bao (£5) is vintage fare – small parcels filled with pork and premium soup and served with a little pot of ginger sauce. Pork crab meat Siu Loung Bao (£6) is distinguishable by the little speck of orange on the apex of the parcel that signifies the inclusion of the fish. Both are succulent and leak liquid as soon as you chomp down on the filling so it’s wise to keep your mouth closed and conversation to a minimum when you take your first bite. On the other hand, Tainan steamed meat ball (£3.20) is somewhat of a disappointment. Unwieldy cubed chunks of pork are stuffed into a giant sloppy mass which ultimately makes eating the dish a bit of an ordeal.

Quick fried diced beef with garlic slices (£10.80) is a standout amongst the mains. Expertly seasoned, the beef is a thin, rubbery consistency and aided by the crisp, piercing flavour of the garlic. Aromatic chilli lamb (£6.80) is another pleasurable dish and excellent value for money. It packs a lingering spicy punch and is reminiscent of crispy chilli beef, only with a smoother texture. Aubergine with mashed garlic and tao pan sauce (£6) is also excellent. Oozing oily indulgence from its pores, it’s the smothering of the sassy garlic sauce that makes it quite irresistible.

Braised pork belly rice (£4.80) is an able accompaniment to the mains. The succulent hunks of pork are soft, mushy and melt effortlessly in your mouth. Sticky rice steamed in bamboo (£4) has more a stodgy, caramelised consistency but is no less appetizing and the minuscule clumps of dried shrimp, scallop and mushroom just furnish the dish with a little nonchalant refinement.

Desserts aren’t the restaurant’s strong point – a fact emphasized by the veritable similarity of the four options on show. Mango pudding (£2.80) is inoffensive enough. Texturally, it’s rather like a homogenized miniature dome with the chunks of mango at least offering a little flavour. Taro paste cake (£2.80) is less flavoursome and altogether less appetising. It’s like a circular mini milk ice lolly without the sugar rush – not distinctive or sweet enough to satisfy for a pudding.

The Drink
The wine list at Leong’s is short and succinct with five (predominantly European) whites ranging from £13.50 to £33 a bottle. Reds (mainly French) are a little greater in number and priced similarly between £13.50 and £46.50. The proverbial Tiger beer is available at £3.30 a pop whilst traditional drinks are a little cheaper. Cold, hot and salted soya bean milk are all on offer for £1.50 and £1 to takeaway with the palate cleansing ice tea with milk priced at £2.20 and a selection of fruit juices at £1.80. For the romantics among you, Champagnes are reasonably priced at £35 and £40 a bottle should you wish to share with a loved one.

The Last Word
Bringing with it a sense of marvel and mystique, Leong’s Legend has quickly established itself in Bayswater – its mythical army of valiant swordsmen luring the masses into its precincts, serving up feasts fit for 12th century warriors. A triumph in any era.

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