Les Deux Salons is the latest venture from Anthony Demetre — previously awarded a Michelin Star — and Will Smith, the team behind Arbutus in Soho and Wild Honey in the West End.

The Venue
In the site of the old Pitcher & Piano, this restaurant has a real French brasserie feel, with tiled floor, dark green leather banquettes and elegant napery. The attentive staff are suavely attired in dark trousers, white shirts with red ties and striped aprons, and the bar takes centre stage in this bustling eaterie. The second 'salon' of the title is upstairs, with tables arranged round an atrium above the bar.

The Atmosphere
Even on a miserable Monday evening Les Deux Salons is buzzing and, while there's no hint of table-turning, there is a lively turn-over. There's plenty of room between tables to make for a quiet dinner à deux, for a clientele that varies, with Spanish, German and French diners, as well as a trio of Oriental visitors who arrive late requesting 'just dessert'. Gordon Ramsay, no less, is among those who linger; apparently a close acquaintance of partner Anthony Demetre.

The Food
Variety meats, the Americans call them: that delicate euphemism for animal innards and extremities - all the bits that go into rissoles. As with all this sort of thing, it's best not to dwell too deeply on the role of the 'variety', just enjoy its flavour. The sweetbreads served at Les Deux Salons, however, are worth dwelling on. Described on the menu as 'a la bouchée de reine' (£8.95), this translates into plumb, luscious little morsels wrapped in a slightly sweet, slighty mustardy gravy with mushrooms and a puff-pastry case. Presumably the 'bouchée' of the title. Rich, gorgeous and melt-in-the-mouth, these are worth the trip alone.

Steak tartare is nicely executed — a neat patty of evenly chopped prime beef with a golden egg yolk and a little jar of cornichons on the side. The only minor quibble is that it’s perhaps a little heavy on the mustard. It's offered as a starter at £7.95 or a main at £12.95. Another gem is the rabbit, which features here both as saddle served with pumpkin gnocchi and hazelnuts (£17.50), and a Monday special, à la moutarde (£15.95).

Other daily specials include cassoulet (£17.95, Thursday) and classic bouillabaise (£19.95, Friday). However, if you're tempted away from the daily special by belly of pork with lentils and autumn vegetables (£16.95), you will have made an excellent choice. The meat is soft and sweet (and plentiful - be warned), the lentils earthy and the vegetables bring it all together nicely. The dish is set off with a slice of French saucisson, both salty and sweet. Nothing more is needed.

A side of caramelised endive (chicory) with orange and juniper is recommended to go with the roast halibut with razor clams (£21.50) and is an inspired choice. The slightly bitter leaves work perfectly with the tender fish, which is faultlessly cooked. The sliced clams are served on top of the fish and in their elegant shells, addding to the piscine punch.

If you have room for pudding, the creme brulée is excellent, silky smooth and topped with the right amount of brittle caramel — a satisfying crunch but not denture-threatening. All puddings — which include those old-fashioned favourites pain perdu and floating islands — are priced at £5.50.

If you go for cheese instead, you may ask your waiter to bring a selection or go and choose them yourself. So you could sample the unusual Soumitran, which is similar in appearance to Epoisse, but less pungent and with a citrus tang and light, floral flavour. There is also an exceptional Comté, aged for two and a half years, which has a deep nuttiness; a potent goat’s cheese, and a Brie-like soft cheese with impressive ooze. A glass of Jurancon dessert wine — with more “legs” than the French Six Nations rugby team — goes beautifully with the cheese, having lovely vanilla and cream top notes.

The Drink
Do indulge in the house speciality, prosecco with seasonal fruit puree. For autumn this is pear, and it works so well you wonder why so few have tried it before. Another pleasing element is the serving of wines by the carafe as well as by the glass or the bottle. How very sensible, particularly if one of you wants red, the other white and neither wants to be insensitive. So you could try a spicy, fruity viognier from California, £35 a bottle or £11.75 a carafe, and a Cote Roannaise Gamay at £28 or £9.50. The carafe holds 250ml, which some establishments serve as a large glass, but it seems to last that much longer from a carafe. All wines are also available in 125ml glasses.

The Last Word
Not yet perfect but very nearly so, it would be strange if there weren't teething problems. But if it’s good enough for Gordon Ramsay…

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