London’s dining scene is full of surprises but nothing makes the jaw drop further or faster than dinner at Little Bay. Perfectly pleasant, predominantly French food comes at bafflingly low prices in the most theatrical of settings. Oh, and there's live opera thrown in for free.

The Venue
There are four Little Bays across the capital plus an outpost in Belgrade should you find yourself in Serbia and in need of roast duck with an aria. The Croydon branch boasts booths, balconies, plush velvet curtains, ceiling beams, stripped wood floors and decoupage tables featuring vintage seaside scenes. Blood red is the dominant colour, a model ship dangles at a crazy angle, and the general feel is of Parisian boudoir crossed with Frank Matcham theatre - with just a whiff of Miss Faversham chucked in. It’s bonkers and rather brilliant.

The Atmosphere
The clientele is a mix of mature couples who swoon at the Puccini and Verdi, and large groups of younger diners who (probably attracted by the low prices) look distinctly uncomfortable when the music starts. An Irish tenor in long, black leather boots and eye-watering tight black trousers (he looks as if he’s just dismounted from his trusty steed) introduces himself and wanders the room singing everything from Nessun Dorma and O Sole Mio, to Ol’ Man River and When Irish Eyes are Smiling. Service is well-paced and competent, and friendly if not overly-effusive, although regular diners are made a fuss of. Business is brisk, even on a weeknight.

The Food
There’s a brief menu of straightforward, loosely French favourites at head-scratchingly low prices. For example, the seven starters are £2.55 before 7pm and £3.25 thereafter. Mains are £5.85 then £7.25 (no, those aren’t misprints).

A perfectly decent, agreeably garlicky pork terrine comes wrapped in bacon with triangles of white toast, a dollop of contrasting fig jam and lightly dressed leaves. Home cured salmon is equally enjoyable. Two thick medallions of gently-flavoured, tender fish are partnered with chunks of boiled beetroot, one huge orange segment and a blob of mild horseradish cream. It all works a treat.

Chicken breast stuffed with minted minced lamb is an unusual main. The filling certainly makes the dish meaty although the mint doesn’t register. Its peppercorn sauce is a good meaty gravy. Paprika potatoes have the distinctive pepper flavour but are a tad mushy. Fillet of plaice stuffed with delicately flavoured crab meat is elegant and winningly retro. The fish is perfectly cooked and comes in that creamy, grape-dotted dinner party staple of the '80s, sauce Veronique. A side of French fries (£2.50) is beyond reproach; hot, crisp and judiciously seasoned.

A quartet of puddings (equally outstanding value at £2.55 before 7pm, £3.25 thereafter) includes an enjoyable vanilla cheesecake which, unlike so many these days, is baked, and all the better for it. A delicious duo of parfaits – white chocolate and pistachio – are both clearly-flavoured, and work well together.

The Drink
After the food bargains, it’s a bit of a shock to find that wine prices, though perfectly reasonable, are what you would expect to pay anywhere else. From a compact but perfectly serviceable wine list with a reasonable selection by the glass, an above-average sauvignon blanc with characteristically crisp acidity is good value at £3.85 for 175ml, £5.15 for 250ml and £14.75 a bottle. Equally enjoyable is a rose d’Anjou (at the same prices), bursting with strawberries, and dry with a balancing sweet edge.

The Last Word
There aren’t many venues left in London where you can enjoy three courses of well-executed French food with half a bottle of modest wine for £25 a head, and even fewer which feature gloriously over-the-top décor and wandering, operatic minstrels. In terms of value, spectacle and sheer originality, Little Bay certainly hits the high notes.

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