From the excitable caw of gulls hovering over this buzzy seafood emporium you would be forgiven for thinking you're in Whitstable Bay rather than Waterloo's The Cut.

The Venue
This review won't be the first time that the Livebait decor has been likened to a gentlemen's water closet. The clean, fresh walls are a tetris of shiny white, poker black and bottle green porcelain tiles, which are so patent that it almost echoes inside. The restaurant is split in to two comfortably sized dining spaces, one is dominated by the impressive iced display which is filled with an ever diminishing daily catch. The other has some coveted window seats, although the view is more roadworks of London rather than a Gainsborough seascape.

The Atmosphere
Livebait has all the charm and appeal of a bustling fish market cafe. The faint scent of fresh fish permeates the air and a clatter of excitable chat gives the place a happy, upbeat vibe. The service is friendly and considerately efficient. Being situated close to the Old Vic makes Livebait popular with the fish-fancying theatre crowd.

The Food
The one phrase you won't hear often in Livebait is Hmm, I think I'll have the chicken. The menu is a fabulously fishy feast starting with rock oysters and huge Bacchanalian-style platters filled with the freshest shellfish from around our shores. Entrees include crispy chilli coconut sea bream which, although tasty, needs more chilli to live up to its feisty name. A pretty much perfect quartet of pan-fried sesame scallops is served with a lively Vietnamese dressing and some crunchy Chinese mooli.

Main course highlights include a deliciously creamy and fragrant Red Thai fish curry, which just brims with cod, salmon and squid. The braised monkfish wrapped in Parma ham is hugely impressive, the accompanying puy lentils in a piquant red wine sauce add contrasting texture to the meaty fish parcels. Other classic Livebait dishes include proper fish and chips with tartare sauce and a smoky hunk of haddock served with herb mash and topped with a poached egg. For dessert, a wedge of dense, white chocolate cheesecake which comes with a rich black cherry compote, is enough to finally pop that top button.

The Drink
Livebait offers a good selection of reasonably priced white wines, from the house Vin de Pays at about £13.50 a bottle to a fine Louis Jadot at £60.00 a pop. It's really nice to see so many available by the glass, it's not often you can request a glass of Sancerre or Chablis instead of the usual house plonk on offer. A handful of reds will sate the rouge brigade and there's a choice of five different champagnes of which two are also available by the glass. The Champagne happy hour offers great value at around £23.00 a bottle and is the perfect accompaniment to a dozen oysters.

The Last Word
This branch of Livebait is a shining example of an unsophisticated seafood joint which offers incredibly fresh and inventive seafood dishes for all tastes. Recommended.

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