In the heart of the theatre district, and still delivering the occasional knock out performance, this seafood restaurant sadly now has the air of an actor tired of his role - the lines are mostly still on cue but the feeling has gone from the performance.

The Venue
Entering Livebait you are welcomed by a small, stylish and very inviting cocktail bar which promises much. The restaurant sits just below street level behind the bar - the gently sloped corridor to reach it giving the first hints of the restaurant's former life as part of the adjacent Lyceum theatre - and the basement feel has been cleverly embraced with tiled walls and rich furnishings to give the feeling of an energetic, luxurious dockside to the dining room. The room could be perfect for the food on offer but the contemporary feeling is slightly hindered by the occasional cracked pane of glass at the pass or broken ceiling tile - however this is nothing a little love and a lick of paint couldn't resolve.

The Atmosphere
There's a great sense of anticipation in this part of London and this imbues Livebait with an enticing feeling of fun. The low ceiling, opulent seating and excellent lighting create a lively atmosphere that complements the excitement the clientele bring through the door. Once they're in, the welcoming staff at Livebait (who know their stuff) and the intimacy provided by booths and well placed tables alike make for a truly enjoyable experience. The evidence of this well constructed atmosphere is everywhere, with appreciative coos as platters are delivered, Champagne corks popping and plenty of laughter.

The Food
Diners are presented with a couple of clear options: a traditional a la carte menu or seafood platters, with both presenting intriguing possibilities (though at around £30 a head the latter are perhaps not for those watching their wallets). The seafood, all sourced in line with the Marine Conservation Society's fishing policies, is beautifully fresh and the simple accompaniments on the glorious ice platters are spot on. These are great sharing plates and are highly recommended for anyone heading through the Livebait doors.

The a la carte menu is suggestive of some innovation in the kitchen though the result falls short of the heights achieved by the platters. Starters are reasonably priced and oysters are available for anyone wanting to dip their toe into the seafood options. The tempura squid is delicious with crisp light batter surrounding fresh squid, served with a well-balanced sauce. A dish of smoked salmon with a pea and mint emulsion from the specials board unfortunately hints at some slightly lax kitchen management - the emulsion more likely to require a chisel than a fork after spending too much time under the heat lamp.

Main courses are similarly inconsistent with sardines from the grill representing the better end of the menu - the fish are plump and tender and a delicate saffron dressing and sweet roasted cherry tomatoes completes a well conceived dish. Tuna with wasabi mash and saffron oil doesn't reach the same heights - the ambition is solid enough, and the tuna technically well handled, but there are too many niggles in the execution to make this a winning dish.

A kitchen can always be forgiven for the odd missed mark but there are certain staples that, when delivered badly, speak loudly of complacency and this seems to be the ailment that is most stopping Livebait hitting its potential. Chocolate fondant is one such dish and the lack of any middle, let alone a melting one, is disappointing in any environment - and must be more so on those big nights out that make up much of Livebait's customer base.

The Drink
The short wine list at Livebait is dominated by whites and the selection is excellent, with examples from across the range available by the glass. Whites and reds alike are appropriately of the lighter, crisper variety with a good spread of grapes and regions available. Champagnes, Champagne cocktails and a traditional cocktail list complete a drinking offer that's taken every bit as seriously as the food, and those wanting to focus on the glass with a plate to accompany will be made to feel every bit as welcome as diners.

The Final Word
Livebait has the cast, script and venue to be a blockbuster success but there is something of the Michael Mann in the direction. It feels like this is a kitchen that is not overly concerned about sequels and should perhaps return to the boards to re-discover the art, dahling.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (2) image gallery (1)