225 Balham High Road,
Balham,
London,
SW17 7BQ
The ViewLondon Review
There are some ambitious young restaurants in Balham. Locale has to work hard to stand out, but locals in search of a welcoming, reliable contemporary Italian will find their visit worthwhile.
The Venue
From the busy drag of Balham High Road, first impressions do little to distinguish Locale. Venture round the corner though, and a terrace adorned with olive trees hints at the effort made within to create an atmosphere of cosseted comfort. A plush bar space greets you, kept distinct, but not separate from the restaurant – a boon for local drinkers in search of competently prepared cocktails. In the main room, the arrangement of booths and small tables, each individually lit, go a long way to distracting diners from the large size of the space. The restaurant has been recently spruced up, and it shows (in all but the slightly down at heel bathrooms).
The Atmosphere
The impression of warmth, achieved through rich brown décor and subdued lighting, is matched by the front of house staff and open, good natured waiters. In fact, it is the human element here that makes the best impression. With a high street well furnished with contemporary Italian restaurants, service from people with an obvious enthusiasm for their jobs and the food they serve provides much needed differentiation. There is weekly live music too, taking in a range of artists, all of a low key ilk.
The Food
In pursuit of a point of difference from the Stradas and Unos, the menu wins out on a number of counts. The first: authentic Italian cooking which runs the gamut from family friendly pastas to rustic, regional dishes. The second: an emphasis on ingredient provenance and fresh preparation admirable in any venture with multiple branches (there are Locales in Fulham, Dulwich and Blackheath too). The third is the new addition of a Josper oven, a fixture which the staff eagerly evangelise. The Josper ‘charcoal-cooks’ at extreme temperatures, sealing in moisture in the range of seafood and steak dishes on offer.
The Octopus starter benefits from this treatment, with the oven imparting a subtle, smoky flavour to the tender meat. A zesty salad sets it off beautifully. Razor clams too are perfectly cooked and seasoned with a light touch; an impressive feat for an ingredient which is easily ruined. The seafood options sit alongside staple antipastis, salad and soup starters, topping out at around £8.
Main courses take in reliable, easy eating favourites like stonebaked pizzas alongside more ambitious (and expensive at £20+) options like guinea fowl with pancetta, roasted and served with butternut squash and sautéed kale. The seafood linguini boasts a rich, sweet tomato sauce with a healthy kick of chilli, and the rolled pork with roasted peppers fits firmly in the hearty, winter-warmers camp.
The dessert selection is arguably a bit more predictable and a bit more traditional, but none the worse for it. Tiramisu and panna cotta sit alongside less steadfast Italian deserts and ‘wood slow roasted’ coffees.
There is a kids menu and plans afoot to run a pizza design competition for little ones with a monthly winner contributing their creations to the menu. This is a nice overture that may steer Locale towards living up to its name for the local buggy-brigade.
The Drink
Cocktails are available in the main restaurant, but most will prefer to match their meal to a wine from the extensive Italian selection – there are a few available by the glass, with bottle starting from around £20. Again, the people at Locale come to the fore here, with their ‘Staff pick 2009’ Montepulciano a fresh and well balanced pick.
The Last Word
Locale has been invigorated by its refurbishment, the addition of a ‘celebrity’ oven and the stewardship of a passionate people. They are clearly making an effort to be part of the local community, culinary and otherwise and have earned the support of their diners.
Locale has been reviewed by 3 users