What was started by Andy Lane and John Noble as an oyster growing business deep in the fertile Loch Fyne waters in Scotland has expanded into quality fish and seafood restaurants that rely on the best farmed and fished produce.

The Venue
This Loch Fyne location is based in Covent Garden on Catherine Street. This is a pretty location close to the Strand and overlooking some eye gazing architecture in nearby Aldwych. The restaurant is earthy and almost colonial in style with plenty of hard modern woods together with clean neutral walls and a sharp hard surface that is finished in chequered black and white.

The Atmosphere
Foodies come here to sample the high quality seafood that Loch Fyne is so famous for. Galvanise your palate at the same time as taking in the sounds of business work chatter and young workers from the nearby streets of Covent Garden. But it’s really all about the fish here as you’ll struggle to come to terms with the amount of choice that’s thrown in your direction. The staff are friendly and polite and help no end with selections and suggestions.

The Food
Head Chef Thomas Pearson holds the reins and delivers an overall consistent performance. The signature Loch Fyne oysters are served on ice with a powerful chilli and coriander dressing, shallot vinegar, Tabasco sauce and some wedges of lemon. Half a dozen at £9 is not cheap and they suffer from a little grittiness which is a cardinal sin. The award winning Loch Fyne organic smoked salmon is spanking fresh and points must go its origin. At £7 the price tag packs a punch but the quality cannot be questioned.

For mains try the Poached Loch Fyne haddock which is lightly smoked and comes with soft mash, spinach and finished with a sharp pea and wholegrain mustard sauce that combines well with the fish and has a distinct taste on the palate. Meanwhile the Whole baked sea bass is moist and well cooked with a well rounded compote of tomato that exhumes freshness and a zesty lemon sauce which is perfect with any sort of fish.

Dessert choices include a creme brulee that’s well executed, rich and creamy, while the fruit crumble is well cooked but the pastry is a little on the heavy side and spoils the rich goodness of the fruit underneath.

The Drink
One of Loch Fyne’s unique selling points is that many of their wine producers are eco-friendly or organic and there’s a wide choice to choose from. The Viognier, Domaine de la Provenquiere 2005/6 is an ideal accompaniment with seafood. A suggested wine for meat is the Finca Flichman “Cabellero de la Cepa” 2005 at a reasonable £16 a bottle with hints of blackberry and plum.

The Last Word
Loch Fyne is another decent effort from the stable of fish restaurants in London sourcing local produce, but the dining experience can be reciprocated much better elsewhere.

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