Next door to the Museum of London, this new venture by the brothers behind Benugo caters perfectly for the daytime culture vultures, lunch time office crowd, residents of Barbican or the dressed up attendees of an after-hours event at the Museum.

The Venue
The interior strikes a balance for all – with an open space and bench seating for larger parties, a balcony for outdoor dining, and a lower lit area with candles, comfy seat corners and black and white photos for a more intimate meal. The view of London Wall and roundabout below might not be the most aesthetic, but it brings the atmosphere of The City in, giving the place a distinct style, as each of the Benugo venues have according to location.

The Atmosphere
Staff are dressed as if straight from the butchers stall at the nearby Smithfield meat market (a nod to the source of some of their ingredients), relaxed, friendly and passionate about the quality British fare they’re serving up. Timing between courses is spot on, as are the offers to bring more drinks when your glasses need refilling.

The Food
Popular choices from the menu may have run out by the evening service, the chef finding that rabbit and pork terrine with piccalilli and sherry trifle for two is in high demand. There are plenty of other options if you can’t get your forks into those though, with a focus on British produce and seasonal ingredients.

Strips of marinated aubergine (£6.50) for starters have a great texture, chunky enough to retain their bite where other sliced aubergine might turn to mush. The marinade, flat leaf parsley and slivers of spring onion give the dish a fresh acidity. English mozzarella and smoked ham (£7) is served warm, so the cheese is slightly melting onto the bed of balsamic-dressed rocket. It is a rich, powerful combination, perhaps a more subtle ham and serving it cold would allow the mozzarella to be better appreciated, similar to Italian antipasti where these components are more commonly enjoyed.

Main courses are split into those from Smithfield market and other options including tempting lemon sole, salmon and a couple of vegetarian dishes. From the impressive ‘Meatboard’, Angus rib-eye on the bone (£19) is a tasty piece of meat, hatched with a criss-cross of grill lines, flawless medium pink and oozing juices which mingle with the dissolving pat of parsley butter. A separate bowl of soft chippy-style chips taste like the potato they were cut from, only enhanced by a dip in the unctuous steak sauce. Lamb chops (£13) are again juicy and flavoursome, slightly fattier than the beef but with more than enough to get your teeth into it’s a carnivorous affair. Accompanying rosemary new potatoes are at their seasonal best, an ideal marriage of ingredients on one plate. The side salad (£3.50) is a medley of various leaves, peppers and cucumber, with a nice French (but no doubt British-sourced) dressing.

There’s a selection of classic homemade desserts – Eton Mess, trifle, ice cream, cheesecake or straight cheese - in portions big enough to share even if not specifically for two. The scoop of chocolate mousse (£5) is deliciously rich, intense, smooth and creamy – like an enormously oversized truffle. Syrupy kumquats are an unusual choice of garnish, some tart berries or citrus orange would provide a better contrast. Worth indulging in but a challenge to polish off.

The Drink
Wine is rated favourite/fine and rare/sparkling or sweet. Glasses range from the affordable (£5 - £7) to more special bottle priced up to £100. They don’t follow the purely British theme, instead representing varieties from France, New Zealand, Italy, Spain and South Africa. After-dinner herbal tea bags are made up in the kitchen, a refreshing way to round off.

The Last Word
London Wall Bar and Kitchen is a perfectly pitched addition to the City restaurant scene.

venue information venue map view london review write a review image gallery (1)