Excellent food and personable service add up to a fine dining experience that’s perfect if you need to impress.

The Venue
L’Oranger is located on St James Street, a few minutes’ walk from Green Park tube station. Although you’d assume that most of L’Oranger’s target market is of the black cab ilk, walking down the street towards the restaurant means that you pass by some of the oldest looking shop fronts in London, including a wine shop and men’s hairdressers.

L’Oranger fits right in with the old fashioned feel from the start with its pretty, curved front window. Inside the decor is warm and friendly, with wood panelling, portraits and windows hanging with heavy curtains. Although it’s a narrow room, the space opens up courtesy of a large skylight, and a separate area for private parties in the basement ensures the main room doesn’t get too raucous. In the summer months an alfresco area is set up in Pickering Place, a tiny courtyard home to a duel or several in its heyday.

The Atmosphere
One look at the prices on the menu (starters from £14, mains from £26) and it’s obvious that this restaurant has a very posh clientele. Although during the week most of the tables are filled with work colleagues or businesspeople entertaining clients, over the weekend it has a much more family-friendly atmosphere. For a special occasion, though, it can’t be faulted, as staff are impressively attentive and knowledgeable. Even if every single seat is filled – as well as the private room downstairs – you can expect your wine and water topped up constantly and someone on hand within seconds’ reach if you have a question.

The Food
The kitchen at L’Oranger is led by French chef Laurent Michel, who previously at Michelin-starred establishments in France as well as Morton’s in London, and he’s been the head chef here since 2004. The contemporary French cuisine on offer here is attractively presented but not fussy, the portions are solid and the attention to detail is second to none. Admittedly it’s quite pricey, but you get what you pay for – and then some.

A starter of creamy pumpkin soup is a lovely deep orange colour. Small, rich pieces of foie gras decorate the bottom of the bowl before the soup is poured in, and they add an extra layer of depth to the already delicious soup (a veggie-friendly version is also available, replacing the foie gras with some crispy little croutons). Goat cheese ravioli, although a bit less exciting than the other dishes, is obviously homemade, with a generous portion of the pasta alongside a pile of well cooked Provencal vegetables. The chef’s signature dish is scallops served in the shell with leeks and truffle sauce on a bed of salt. The scallops and leeks are sealed into scallop shell with puff pastry, and as the pastry cooks, the scallops inside are steamed. This method of cooking guarantees that they’re light and melt-in-the-mouth tender; the accompanying leeks give it a soft, buttery finish whilst the pastry is crisp and fluffy.

Mains include a variety of meat and fish options, including a veal dish that’s served in a short tower, layered with savoury potatoes and dark green spinach. The veal is cooked perfectly, and the addition of truffle flakes on top add an indulgent edge. Monkfish is covered in a sweet, crispy crust that works well with the hearty flavoured fish, and the accompanying vegetables are a perfect match, especially the lemony, sweet carrots.

Cheeses are served in the customary French way, before dessert, and the massive trolley will have you thinking about the choices throughout your meal. A selection is £14 and there’s impressive variety, including about five different types of goat cheese. Staff are well informed about each (right down to which knife to use) and can help you make your mind up if you’re unsure. If you still have room afterwards, recommended desserts include a chocolate and coffee mousse dish, served in a pointed glass over a bubbling pink dry ice concoction – even without the theatrics the intensely chocolately, creamy mousse is very impressive. The sugary, sticky and sweet macarons are also highly recommended; with glittery sugar sprinkled on top, it’s as lovely to look at as it is to eat. For a fruitier dessert, pineapple on long vanilla pods with drops of bright green mint sauce is a colourful, refreshing choice.

The Drink
The wine list is mostly French but also includes a full representation of other countries. Prices start at £29 a bottle for a Alsace Pinot Blanc Reserve, and climb to £2,300 for a 1986 Pomerol Petrus. Wine is also served by the glass, with fifteen options including sweet wines, ports and Champagnes. The 2007 Loire Vallee Reilly Domaine Claude Lafond (£6.50) kicks off the list. Champagne starts from £56 for a Perrier Jouet NV Grand Brut. The best idea, however, may be to ask staff to recommend some choices for you if possible. They’ll be able to match it perfectly, whether by the glass per course or by the bottle for the whole meal.

Similarly, the restuarant is currently offering a Champagne matching menu for lunch, with three courses (and three glasses of Perrier Jouet Champagne) for £49. The dishes are all on the lighter side to complement the Champagne, and include smoked salmon with gingerbread chips, veal with Serrano ham and lemon macarons.

The Last Word
If you could afford to eat at L’Oranger every night, you would. But if you can’t, it’s well worth squirreling some hard earned money away for a special occasion.

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