Lord Palmerston is one of the outfits that makes up the Geronimos Inns group, serving consistently high quality British food in comfortable surroundings.

The Venue
Lord Palmerston is positioned on Dartmouth Park Hill, a short walk from Tufnell Park on the Northern Line. The location is somewhat salubrious as you are more likely to see fish and chips and greasy spoons nearby, but fortunately this establishment can be found further up the Hill. This pub has all the hallmarks of a real cosy local with a modern twist. There’s a smart interior with a combination of magnolia and olive green walls. There’s also a nice back room with a homely environment and some unusual objects, including silver cockerels and a large open bookcase. An added touch is the big blackboard where you have the opportunity to get up from your chair and order the delights on the modern British menu.

The Atmosphere
Lord Palmerston has a sedate environment with the clientele ranging from young groups catching up over a bottle or two to locals relaxing over a drink and a newspaper. The room at the back is especially atmospheric in the evening when mood lighting and church candles enhance the feel of the restaurant.

The Food
To start, choose the chicken liver pate, which is smooth and fresh with a layer of fat that is rich and wholesome. The presentation on a wooden palette with a small bowl of capers and gherkins is particularly impressive. Meanwhile, the smoked duck breast salad is fresh with the meat providing a subtle smoky taste and texture. The accompanying salad is crisp and ideal. Something to note here is portions are more than ample for even the heartiest of appetites.

Onto the mains, and the seared tuna is well cooked, coming with puy lentils that are an ideal accompaniment; however, the plate lacks a little oomph. The unusual braised mutton chop is well done and the gravy is plentiful and delicious.

To finish, choose the bread and butter pudding, which is smooth and has layer upon layer of eggy bread that comes with cream. The coconut rice pudding is inventive and extremely rich - so much so you’ll admit defeat after a few spoonfuls.

The Drink
The wine at the Lord Palmerston is carefully selected under the supervision of John Clevely, who is a master of wine himself. Wines are divided into categories with crisp, New World and fruity amongst the sections. The house white is a French Lerane 2005 and is not a bad effort with a good aroma - at £12 it is also reasonably cheap. Other fine examples include the creamy Chardonnays from Chile and France from the early 2000’s and an elegant Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon Rose from 2005.

There’s also a superlative, and frequently-changing choice of ales from around the country – including such favourites as Adnams, Sharps, TFA and Hogsback. Draught lagers give you a mini tour of the continent, with the likes of Budvar, Bitburger and Amstel, plus a fine roll-call of bottled beers, such as Chimay and Duvel, and unusual ciders.

The Last Word
This gastropub has a lot going for it in spite of its location. It’s well worth the trek up the hill if you venture into this part of North London

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