For a culinary flashback to the eighties get down to Lorenzo in Crystal Palace and enjoy cheap, hearty food the Italian way.

The Venue
Situated near the park on SE19's Westow Hill, Lorenzo has stood its ground since 1985 and to be honest it seems as if nothing much has changed over those 20 years. Inside, it's got all the trappings of a typical suburban pizzeria in say, Woking. Paper table cloths, faded panoramics of Lake Garda and a large, phallic pepper grinder, the kind that is bought out just for hen parties.

The Atmosphere
Lorenzo is a family-run Italian restaurant and friendly is its middle name. The staff are fast, efficient and quick to offer a cheeky wink to the ladies. The value lunch brings in the local workers for a hearty meal and busy mums feed broods of kids the Italian way. The evenings are mainly dominated by local young professionals and cash-strapped students out for a cheerful supper.

The Food
The food is consistently good and as long as you don't head along expecting Aldo Zilli you won't be disappointed. The lunchtime menu served until 5pm is exceptional value. The pizzas are big and crispy with a heavy hand of mozzarella, similarly the pasta dishes are all expertly cooked and very fresh. The fiery Arribiata positively smokes with fresh chillies which are barely contained by its vivid tomato sauce. The vegetarian crespolini is a fine example of a great dish, thin pancakes filled with a creamy mushroom, spinach and ricotta bechamel, then doused in a rich tomato sauce and baked. The desserts offer good value, but you need to get in early to grab a taste of the heavenly, coffee-soaked tiramisu.

The Drink
Chianti, Nastro Azzurro and lots of soda for the kids. There's an unwritten rule about high street pizzerias - don't splash the cash, drink cheap red wine and lots of it. This type of Italian food seems suited to rough reds, so there's really no need to go all pretentious and start ordering the 1984 Maison Lafitte to accompany your Hawaiian pizza.

The Last Word
Lorenzo is a delightful throw back to the eighties when Italian restaurants ruled the high street. A bag-load of kitsch coupled with plenty of charm go a long way. So go, eat pizza, drink Chianti from a wicker basket and sing O Sole Mio all the way home.

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