From initial impressions Lovage is no different to the former Indian restaurant, Hara, which used to occupy the building close to Shad Thames. However, whilst the decor hasn’t changed drastically everything else has – from the owners to the contemporary Indian cuisine.

The Venue
The doormen are just the first sign that Lovage really prides itself on its attention to detail. Walk in on the ground floor level and you’ll encounter a long bar immediately in front of you that knocks up some pretty decent and imaginative cocktails and is nice enough to merely drop in for a drink if you’re not in the mood for food. On football nights the match is shown on mute, no doubt to mollify football fans who have been coaxed into leaving the house for a meal in lieu of a feast of beer and the beautiful game.

Upstairs meanwhile, the restaurant is contemporary and comfortable. Tables are nicely spaced apart and larger groups benefit from banquette seating along one side of the room whilst the smaller tables are arranged close to the windows and the bar below.

The Atmosphere
As you’d expect from a restaurant that’s only a few streets away from Shad Thames and its many options for dining, most of the tables are occupied by local foodies who would rather part with the keys to their Porsche than pay money for a bog standard balti. As a result, it’s easy to track the progress of when tables have been served by the hush that descends around the restaurant when the courses arrive. Lively chatter from the bar below prevents this fervour from food from being too stultifying however, and the animated discussions that follow each dish being cleared away is testament to how much local residents value quality cuisine.

The Food
High end Indian food is as appealing in its presentation as it is to eat and Lovage really excels at treating the ingredients as an art form. The sauces are swirled onto the plate, the elements of each dish piled just-so and the colours are as complementary as the flavours. From the outset, the starters really highlight the range of dishes that the restaurant offers as you’ll find traditional favourites sitting happily alongside innovative seafood dishes. The Lamb Seekh Gilafi (£4.95) is a generous portion and the minced lamb has been mixed with enough coriander and green chillies to have a really decent kick without compromising the flavour of the meat. The mussels (£6.95) are even more impressive. The green half shell mussels are large, plump and drenched in plenty of lemon and coconut milk that’s lifted with a generous slug of brandy and plenty of garlic.

The main courses are just as diverse. The Mixed Grill (£12.50) is the Indian restaurant equivalent of Surf and Turf - a hefty serving of succulent, charred-just-so tandoori chicken, spicy achari chicken, juicy shish kebab, a tender lamb chop and huge tandoori king prawns that are really phenomenal and such good quality that their flavour isn’t overwhelmed even when served tandoori-style. If you’re a seafood fan, the Crab Bhuna (£12.95) is a must. The delicate crab meat is served in its shell mixed with delicately chopped green chillies, tomatoes, ginger, onions, garlic, turmeric and coriander. Accompany it with fluffy coconut or lemon rice (both £2.75) and a side order of Saag Paneer (the spinach is served with plenty of melted homemade cheese so don’t be surprised at how filling it is) or Baigan Bhaji (both £3.25). The spiced baby aubergines with their miniature shiny, glossy skins look so picture perfect that it almost seems like a shame to dig in, until that is you’ve tasted them after which you won’t be able to hold back from spooning them onto your plate.

The desserts are designed to cool your palate at the end of the meal and include many classic Indian dishes. The Kulfi (£3.95) arrives in pastel hues and you can pick from pistachio, mango and almond flavours of the traditional Indian dairy ice cream. Creamy and sweet, each smooth mouthful cools the palate and it’s sweet enough to make it moreish even at the end of a blow-out meal – the ice cream equivalent of condensed milk. If that’s not sweet enough, try the Nougat dessert (£3.95) with its well balanced smooth, chewy and crunchy textures - ice cream, cherries, montelimar nougat, pistachio and grilled almonds.

The Drink
Stop off in the bar area on the ground floor for a cocktail before making your way upstairs to your table or if you’d prefer, finish your meal with a drink rather than a dessert. Creamy cocktails are really reasonably priced at £5.50 and include the traditional White Russian which blends vodka, coffee liqueur and cream into one potent glass. More unusual offerings include the Pink Comfort whose name takes its inspiration from the ingredients – Southern Comfort, Baileys, strawberries and cream. The wine is just as good value for money too with bottles of house wine costing just £13. The house red is a Malbec that works really well with the spicy, strong flavours.

The Last Word
If Lovage is your local then there’s no longer any need to stick to Shad Thames or walk over Tower Bridge to Brick Lane in order to enjoy a curry. Slick service, spectacular cuisine and a well-priced cocktail list ensure that you’ll still be lusting after the experience long after you’ve left.

View®  Card offers venue information venue map view london review user reviews (10) image gallery (3)