The glam St James’s address draws as much attention to itself as does its endearingly notorious owner Marco Pierre White.

The Venue
Superb interiors from uber-designer David Collins. Swish and swanky lounge, with resplendent mosaic floors, sumptuous leather seating and a sparkly bar descends into a vast white dining area with interestingly integrating eclectic lights and ultra-modern seating with ornately framed original artworks.

The Atmosphere
The lively lunchtime revellers are replaced in the evenings by a chic and sophisticated set, who take dressing for dinner very seriously. It is reassuring to see such a healthy contingent of refined guests and lovers of Italian food.

The Food
The quality of the food varies drastically, depending on the day. And it’s generally better to go for supper. On a good day, this can be a fine dining experience par excellence. The constantly changing menu is traditional with interesting touches. The cuisine is light and lovely and the pasta is perfectly cooked. Portions are tiny, so fill up on bread, unless you are prepared to have four courses.

The staff are so attentive that if you betray an ever so slight preference for the ravioli over the equally exquisite risotto, no less than four members of staff descend upon you to enquire why you are displeased… You can safely trust the well-trained waiters to choose for you. They uncannily seem to know exactly what you want.

The Drink
The bar is a trendy place to be seen around town and the cocktails can be innovative and exciting. Wonderful for post-work or pre-dinner drinks or the start of a long boozy lunch. Great Italian wines to keep you company over supper.

The Last Word
Whilst it’s true that on a bad day you might regret paying for the expensive food, the restaurant has an air of gaiety and fun about it that few top-end restaurants do.

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