Located on Fleet Street, the scene of a recession-driven journalist cull in recent months, and only a short stroll from the equally stricken City of London, Lutyens could so easily have been the right restaurant at the wrong time. However, it would take more than a fragile economic climate to prevent Conran from making a restaurant a roaring success.

The Venue
The handsome building stands out as a Conran from several feet away but it’s inside that the seasoned restaurateur has really made the space his own. Lutyens Restaurant has its own entrance halfway down the side of the building but if you’re heading there after work it’s more likely that you’ll make your way past the amiable uniformed doorman for a drink in the ground floor bar first. Once you do head into the restaurant however, you’ll wish that you’d headed straight there as the fresh green palette – from the seats covered in the pale green of Spring’s first baby buds to the mossy hue of the carpet – is instantly relaxing. Fresh flower arrangements in dusky pinks prevent the colour palette from being too muted – from the simple, heavy heads of hydrangeas in the middle of the room to the small arrangements of roses that look as though they have just been plucked from a hedgerow, they succeed in pulling all of the elements of the room together.

As you’d expect at a restaurant of this calibre, the tables are nicely spaced apart and arranged around the edges of the room with a central bank of back to back banquette seating beneath cream, sculptural light fittings that break up the otherwise vast room. Prime seating is a toss-up between the seats at the mosaic seafood counter or the tables immediately behind it, which afford a splendid view of the chefs picking out seafood from banks of ice when they’re not hard at work beneath the shiny copper pans in the open kitchen, but the tables probably just take the edge if you’re not dining alone.

The Atmosphere
Whilst the restaurant is far less boisterous than you’d expect given its location perhaps the tranquility can be attributed to the lack of florid faces and expense account-stomachs straining at the seams. Couples enjoying intimate dinners are the norm for now but don’t be surprised if word gets round and it becomes more upbeat as with so many staff to diners and the level of service, Lutyens Restaurant is a clear contender in the area for a client facing lunch.

The Food
Lutyens is a restaurant dedicated to seafood as its separate counter bears testament. The menu pays homage to oysters served in so many different ways that you may be tempted to just opt for them as they come. Don’t. The oysters with chorizo (£6.95) are a show-stopper of a starter. The three chilled oysters arrive with a corresponding number of chorizo sausages that provide a spicy kick to contrast sublimely with the coolness of the oysters and provides an innovative alternative to Tabasco, although if you’re a fiend for hot food they’ll also offer bottles of the sauce in both green and red varieties. The chicken liver parfait (£7.75) is just as good – a huge, rich, creamy slab of pate edged in butter is served with two thick, golden toasted pieces of bread that are similar to brioche in texture but not quite as sweet.

It’s hard for the main courses to compete but they hold up admirably. The skate wing (£16.50) is served with shrimp and a citrus garnish and the thick slab of fish falls away at the merest touch of the Lutyens-engraved knife. The dish is swimming in butter, just as it should be, however the fish could do with slightly more of a contrast in flavours, as the shrimp that accompany it are delicate, too, and the addition of some spicier flavours would help to rectify this. Rabbit with bacon and mustard sauce (£13.50) is a large portion, with three medallions of rabbit and a leg on the bone, all wrapped in Pancetta. The rabbit meat is soft and delicate, the bacon salty and just the right texture, whilst the mustard sauce isn’t too overwhelming and complements the strong flavours of the bacon.

For dessert, a daily changing tart is on offer for £5 – their cherry tart is highly recommended. A slice of it is cut at your table, adding some theatricality to your dinner, and served simply and unadorned on a white plate. It’s packed full of plump, juicy, sugary cherry pieces and whilst the tart itself isn’t dry, it would be nice to have the addition of some cream on the side. The creme brulee (£5) arrives with a beautifully caramelised brown sugar top, so immaculately presented that the surface looks like lacquer. Inside, the creamy dessert is mixed with just enough fresh vanilla to add interest and is a suberb example of the dish.

The Drink
A lengthy wine list of about 25 pages includes various options from across the globe, with a healthy sprinkling of New World choices. Prices start from a reasonable £16 per bottle and go up well into the range of several hundred pounds, which is only to be expected. A full page is dedicated to wines by the glass, including a heavy, sweet Malbec (£5.50) and a light, crisp Pinot Grigio (£6.50). A sommelier stands at attention by the seafood bar, easily on hand should you need any guidance.

The Last Word
Lutyens is named after an architect and the building it’s housed in is impressive. However, it’s the craftsmanship of the cuisine that really sets this Conran restaurant apart.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (1) image gallery (9)